[Apex_speed]

I wanted to expand on an old thread that helped me out in case someone searches for this topic in the future.

1. On both sides, the first step is to remove the acorn nuts from the large heat shields against the foot boxes and pull them off their mounting studs. There are nuts on the front and the side that are all easy to get from under the car. They will just rest in place out of the way. They are 10MM nuts and secured to studs so you do not need a wrench on the other end.

2. On both sides , remove the horizontal heat shields. They secure to the rear with the same studs as the large heat shield and are fastened towards the front with mounting tabs secured to the wheel well heat shields. These are through bolted with 8MM head bolts and nuts. A box end on one side and 1/4" drive ratchet on the other worked well. Remove all the fasteners and then slip them out of the car at an angle. It is a tight fit on the drivers side but comes out. This should be done with a helper under the car as you can not reach both sides of all of them alone.

3. Each louver is held in place by 4 8MM head size bolts and nuts. I lined the slats in both vents that had the bolts with gorilla tape to prevent damage. I also lined the top and bottom of the fender hole to protect from a tool drop.

4. On the passenger side remove the 4 bolts. I used an 8MM 1/4" drive on a universal joint and 8" extension. It's tight but you can use two hands to hold the extension and ratchet while a helper is holding the other end with a box end wrench. Two are accessed from under the car above the headers and two from in the engine bay. After the fasteners are out, very carefully push the louvers in towards the engine and then rotate them around in the space you have until they are at the right angle to come out the hole in the fender. Watch the paint and your hands as they are very sharp.

5. On the drivers side, turn the wheels all the way to the left. Remove the 4 bolts holding in the access panel for the master cylinder with a 10MM 1/4" drive ratchet and box end wrench. You can reach both sides alone. The panel will pop right out. Use the same 8MM 1/4" drive on a universal joint and 8" extension. Start on the bottom. It's tight but you can use two hands to hold the extension and ratchet while a helper is holding the other end with a box end wrench through the access hole. The two on top will require your helper (much easier) to reach in and hold the nut with the 8MM box end while you take the bolt out. The one towards the front is easy. The one towards the back is a trick. Your helper must reach through the access panel and twist their arm UP AND OVER THE TOP of the clutch master that will be in the way but you can do it pretty easily with the right angle. You just have to play with it a few times. After the fasteners are out, very carefully push the louvers in towards the engine and then rotate them around in the space you have (very tight) until they are at the right angle to come out the hole in the fender. Watch the paint and your hands as they are very sharp.

Reverse the procedure above to reinstall. It took about an hour with the aid of a lift. Plan on 90 minutes and jack the front of the car up or put it on ramps for clearance.

The Hillbank parts dept has paint codes for most all colors and years of cars if you know your color name.