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Originally Posted by xlr8tr
I agree with you 100%- but inmy case the car was built POORLY. I definitely will be moving suspension points, steering rack ect. Just a couple of examples I have figured out so far from reading/researching:
1) steering rack is about 4 INCHES too wide: from what I have read, to minimize bump steer the steering rack inner pivot points are supposed be on the imaginary line between the upper and lower A arm inner suspension pivots, and they are INCHES off on each side. The way is is now, any bump steer correction will give perfect bump steer at ride height +/- about 1/4" of travel, then all hell breaks loose.
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What length are you looking for?
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2) the imaginary lines created by the upper and lower rear 4 link arms are supposed to cross somewhere close to the front of the car, but they actually point BACKWARDS and no way to adjust that out
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Interesting. In a bad way. Usually the fix is to weld taller brackets on the rear end housing.
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3) lower A arms at ride height are nowhere near level, they point up about 2" from chassis to where they attach to the uprights. Drop spindles will fix that, but then i have no idea what happens to camber curve etc.
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That would depend on whether the distance between the top and bottom ball joint changes. Usually dropped spindles keep the original distance.