Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickt
With Bob's new configuration, you do not need a fuse in holder #3. You only need that fuse to charge with the previous "indicator light" configuration. The fact that the circuit on fuse #3 was in the process of faulting out can give you confusing results, so you should dismiss that until you've tested further.
Remember that Green wire also runs to the wiper motor over on the passenger side foot box. That plug is really easy to pull, so go ahead and pull it when you're ready to trace for the fault on the two branches of Fuse #3. But I would first test Bob's new configuration, all the while leaving Fuse #3 completely out. The only way Bob's configuration won't work is if there is a bad VR, a bad alternator, or a bad connection between the two. I think it will charge fine. In fact, I think I'm in a position as to guess what happened to cause all this mess, but I'm going to hold that card close to the vest for now just in case I'm wrong.  |
Patrick,
If fuse 3 is not required in Bob's configuration to charge, why did the car charge when there was a fresh fuse in # stop charging yesterday and the fuse was blown?
I did receive my short tester, but I'm not quite ready to go down to that level of detail.
Just got off the phone with Doug. One thing not shown on the schematic is a voltage shunt on the fuel gauge. I think, Patrick, this is a similar circuit to what you retrofitted? He suspects that may be the issue, and also since it's installed, the test I did to isolate the fuel gauge did not in fact remove the rest of the circuit. Just wish it was a little easier to reach up in there and access that stuff!