Quote:
Originally Posted by cobrabritt83
Got the engine and trans mounted in the frame. I bolted the engine mounts in the center of the frame rails and sat the engine in the center of the motor mounts. I have about 2 1/2 inches in height difference between the trans yoke and the rear end pinion. I also noticed the front wheels have a positive camber to them, is that normal for this kit.
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When I built mine, I was more focused on the 22 1/2" callout from the front cross member to the center of the pass headers. (so the sidepipe cutouts would be before the fender flare)
Holding that measurement, I let the motor mounts fall in the frame where they were.
As for a trans mount, I got a kit from Summit (or was it Jegs? Lol!) that had the motor mounts and trans mount as a set.
Once you get the body on, gas tank mounted, seats bolted down, interior in and wheel and tires on the car, like Saltshaker said, then you can check your pinion angle. I ended up using a 3/8" piece to shim up my trans (TKO 600) to get roughly a 5* pinion angle. Remember, you don`t want your driveshaft perfectly level. You`ll chew up (brinell) your u-joints.
As for the positive camber, when they ship the kit, they just throw enough shims on the upper a arms. When you go to have it final aligned, they`ll add whatever shims will be needed to get a good camber.
Oh, when it comes to that, you may have to buy longer bolts. (I had to) Where I had my alignment done, they added a buttload of shims to get the proper camber set.
BUT..you can cross that bridge when you get to it.