[fintubi]

Reviving a thread from a couple months ago because I have the answer.

And best of all, I didn't have to drain and pull the tank to diagnose or fix!

The problem turned out to be a misconnected tank harness. I couldn't see this until I drilled out the rivets holding in the flange that accepts the trunk bulkhead screws. With the flange out of the way, it's possible to peer in and see the connections from the tank harness to the tank.

Since I have the SW gauge, only the white and black (resistance signal) wires are needed, and the pink (+12V) wire is not used. On my car, the black wire in the tank harness was correctly connected to tank ground. But the white wire was cut off at the sender end, and the *pink* wire was connected to the sender output.

When connected to the chassis harness, this means that the sender output was connected to +12V, the sender chassis was grounded, and the white wire - where the SW gauge expects its signal - was open.

The correct way to fix this would be to pull the tank, disconnect the pink wire from the sender, and attach the white wire. The *easy* way is to move the white wire in the chassis connector into the pink position. This connects the white chassis wire to the sender output via the pink sender harness wire, and everything works.

I also moved the pink chassis wire into the unused position on the connector - I didn't want to swap it into the white spot because the sender end of the white wire is simply cut off, and I don't have access to insulate it properly. Putting pink into an unused position ensures there aren't any shorts/sparks next to my gas tank when the pink wire is powered with +12V.

If I ever take the tank out I'll swap everything around so the colors make sense.

Bill