Quote:
Originally Posted by t walgamuth
Yeah, my o2 sensor is about 2' down from the four slip joints and I do occasionally get popping in the exhaust. It also seems to run rich until very warm.
I don't see how a flange can be mounted on mine as the four slip joints are all up against each other. That guy who did my roll bar could probably do it though....his welding is a thing of art.
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Whichever (side Pipe or Header) set of pipes are the female, the flange plate is tack welded to the end of it, such that the ends of the pipes are flush with the plate. Then the slip fit (male) has a flange plate slipped onto it. Then slide them together. Make sure everything fits correctly on the car, with the plates bolted together. Once everything is aligned, tack weld the plate to the male pipe. Now disassemble. The male pipes are sticking through the plate. Cut them off flush with the plate. Now carefully weld the pipes to the plates by short beads and skipping around so not to heat warp anything.
If the flanges would come too close to something, then the plates would have to be slid one way or the other. Then the trimming pipes would have to be altered.
My pipes required different diameter holes, as the female pipe is larger in diameter than the male. The tighter the fit the less welding. My plates bolt together via 8 bolts (four corners and one in the center of each side), and they are 3/8" thick plates. Any coatings have to be stripped where you are going to weld to prevent contamination. I had to relocate my hydraulic clutch line, as the plates being 1/2" closer boiled the fluid.
PS
The original design had a couple tabs that bolts went through to keep them from falling apart. I cut the tabs off and ground it smooth. Looks as if they were never there. Also the plates have to be flat (where the gasket will go), when you are done. A lot of file work, so a belt sander would be better. Better yet mil them flat if you can.