[Moritz55]

Thanks everyone for the reassurance & confirmation.....

As promised I just took the SPF out today ... fully warmed it up and I have some data to share....
1) Needle behavior seems normal... initially it moves to the RIGHT of Zero after starting.... but eventually rests back to left of Zero while running....
2) Voltage to Battery when started up at about 900RPM .. is 14.5-14.6V ... this is with Lights ON and car running since my car is wired for Lights ON when ignition is ON.
3) Voltage to Battery after running the car on the road so it's fully warming with Lights ON Battery voltage is 14.2-14.3V ... then when I turn Fans ON the voltage measures 13.7-13.8V... I assumes this is because they draw some many amps....
4) Ammeter when Fans are ON drops then gradually creeps back up to just Left of Zero.. which is normal given the Smiths Ammeter gauge.
5) When I shut the car off, turn OFF the Master PWR Switch ... Battery reads 13.2V ...

Couple of conclusions ...
- My Powermaster 105amp Alternator is putting out higher amperage (since my Voltage is 14.6-14.7V at initial 1200RPM), since I ran a Heavy 8gauge GRD from ALT directly to chassis Battery Neg. This moves my Ammeter needle to POS .. more than previously. I got this from SCOF website.
- I did fix some marginal connections, not sure that helped much... however it's better than before so I feel more secure.
- I noticed now my Tach is more accurate ... at low RPM''s my Smiths Tach would read ~1100RPM, yet my timing light would read ~900RPM... now the Smiths Tach is within 100RPM of my Timing light (still slightly lower but much closer).

BTW .. Blas thanks for the schematics !! Invaluable to me a novice MKIII owner. I also checked the Screws in the Fuse Box and all were locked in place tight so no need for me to try tightening any.

Again.. please accept my thanks for all the encouragement, insight and feedback... this makes driving the SPF even more enjoyable and spirited!!

Stay safe all and thanks!!