Spoke to Autometer on the phone and they suggested a continuity test from the body of the sending unit to the frame. I already did that and it was fine. Grounded the gauge connection on the sender and the gauge went to max so the gauge is fine. As long as I know the
oil is over 200 degrees in the pan I am not going to worry about it till I change the
oil and pull the sender. Thanks for the chart. Going to compare laser
oil pan reading to sender ohm reading next time I take the car out.
Fred
Quote:
Originally Posted by spdbrake
On those senders a poor connection, poor ground can cause the cold reading (high resistance=low temp. Or its a bad sensor. Since its a new sensor and gauge I'd lean to what Cycleguy mentioned.
https://www.autometer.com/sensor_specs
PS: over-torquing the center stud can really screw them up permanently. Should be snug enough to prevent the eyelet from swiveling only.
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