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Old 12-10-2020, 07:48 AM
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DanEC DanEC is offline
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Little Rock area, AR
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA Street Roadster #782 with 459 cu in FE KC engine, toploader, 3.31
Posts: 4,521
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I’m not sure I know which end of the clutch fork you are most interested in movement to full release. I know from my ERA with 12” McLeod diaphragm clutch that it takes about .9” of slave rod movement to cycle the clutch.

For trans removal, if doing it from the underside, I would get a couple of 6 inch long bolts and cut the head off of and round the cut ends slightly. Remove the transmission bolts at top and thread them in for the transmission to glide back on until it’s out of the clutch disc. Then during replacement put them back in and raise and hook the transmission on them. Then you can maneuver the rear of the trans to align it to go into the disc and hopefully slide right home. However, those plastic disc alignment tools are notorious for not working very well. The best tool is an old cut off input shaft if you can find one. If you can’t, I would have the clutch fork hooked up and hydraulics bleed if necessary. If the transmission hangs up and doesn’t slide into the pilot bushing, first put the yoke in with the transmission in first gear and rotate the yoke a little to see if it’s just a spline hang up. If that doesn’t work, have someone slowly push in the clutch while you are wiggling the transmission in, and as the disc starts to release, it will self-align.

Good luck
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