[grodavidson]

Read all of the above, doesn't appear to have any recent feedback.

Bought my Contemporary Classic locally in 2013. Car was built in 1984, the previous owner contracted a complete rebuild in 1992-1993. When I got it the tires constantly leaked down. Had Yokohama tires that were showing signs of dry rot/cracking, so I had them replaced with BFG TA's by a local mechanic/hot rod shop while the car was there for an overall go-through. Back in 2013 vehicle inspection in NJ was done every two years, but any new purchase had to be re-inspected. On my purchase in 2013 the owner and I drove to "his guy", and looking at records I saw that the only miles put on the car since it's previous inspection exactly equalled the distance from the shop to his home, then back to the shop for inspection after my purchase! That's why I wanted to have the car gone through. That shop had my car for 2 years, 2 months, and 28 days. I had finally had enough and took it out of there.

Took it to a different shop, a really talented fabricator. Everyone there said it was the best repro Cobra they had ever seen. He went over the car completely, made a few safety upgrades re:rear heim joints, fabbed a better enclosed fan shroud and installed a more efficient fan & fan motor. Asked him to look at the wheel leak-down. He removed the new tires, installed new valve stems, remounted tires. I still have air leak down. Only one wheel (RR) holds indefinitely. LF and LR are "OK", lose a couple lbs/week. RF loses 4-5lbs in a day and can be nearly flat in 3 weeks of winter sitting.

Hope there will be some new input re:this subject on this thread. I'm confused as to how to proceed with any repair. Surely thought there would just be some sort of common sealer applied to the inside of the wheels to solve this problem, but apparently not. I have not done, or had done by someone reputable, an inspection of the wheels with the tires off. I was just chalking it up to the porosity of magnesium and certainly was not thinking about anything like cracking. Furthermore I have no idea how to establish that the wheels are actually Halibrands vs. aftermarket knockoffs. Just have the "Halibrand" raised lettering in the spoke casting on the spinners. Also have no idea of their age.

As I've tried to say I have no idea of how to proceed (as locally as possible) with a remediation for this problem. Any advice appreciated.