Before you start at the wheel back off the nuts on the emer handle cables. Save the handle adjustment for fine tuning.
You can access the adjuster thru one of the stud holes. (without removing anything else)To remove the stud its easiest to install two 12mmx1.5m nuts. Then turn the inner nut ccw to remove the stud. The studs remove easier when the the stud is heated. The Red Loctite will liquify anywhere from 270-450F.
IF you pull the caliper and hub adapter + rotor its much easier to see what you are doing. A flat tip screw driver will flip the teeth on the adjuster. If you have an Endoscope its easier to see if you're flipping in in the right direction. If no scope, it will become easier (wrong direction) and finally bottom out or harder (correct direction). Keep spinning the opposite wheel until you hear the shoes dragging, then back it off a couple of clicks.
Clean the removed stud base thread with a wire brush or wheel to remove any loctite. Apply new Red loctite to the base threads only and install the stud.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/lct-37701
Repeat on opposite brake.
Final adjustments made on the emer handle nuts.
The Newer cars with an integral pin drive/hub use a shallow BDR made Pin drive bolt which can be difficult to remove if you slip with the Allen socket. I'd heat the hub and ensure you're on the bolt square before applying any leverage. Def no impact tools.
Sorry if I over explained this. Some folks go right to the hammer mode vs finesse.