Petek,
We have nearly identical cars.
Front suspension.
Using Heidts upper "D" arms. Heidts is good, but so are others from Beroth, RCC, so long as it is a "D" arm to clear CR upper spring mount.
Installed Tom Beroth's upper control arm brackets, in fact just got it out of the alignment shop yeaterday. Arms now adjust with shims, and stay put. Get a set, but ask Tom to include 1" length bracket bolts and standard suspension nuts w/o welded piece on nut, and 2 1/2" arm bolts. The bracket bolts were too long, and the arm bolts too short.
Used RCC's tubular lowers with a standard strut rod. RCC is (
www.dwayne9.addr.com). Reason is shock mounts lower than straight through arm allowing a little more motion. They sell uppers as well, and are familiar with CR suspension. Recommend Beroth's upper bracket to the RCC one.
Used the Carerra coil overs from RCC with 375# spring. Eventually, I'll replace the Carerra with a Koni, but the Carerras work OK for now.
Can give you "what worked for me" options on brakes, and power steering if you'd like.
Rear springs. Chevette station wagon load leveller, progressive wound springs by Moog go in unmodified, work well, and are available from any Auto Parts store. Part # is either 663, or 633. There is only one spring you can get for a Chevette rear. About $70/
pr. Am using Koni part cross referenced from VW part in CR manual. They work fine.
Engine & trans mount. Using Energy Suspension late Mustang engine & trans urethane mounts. These use a stud, and 14mm bolt. Think Don, and DV have these frame mounts. The 351 mounts 3/4" - 1" lower than 302. Trans has to be lowered same amount so sidepipes sit level, and engine isn't tilted foreward. You'll need a smaller diameter crank pulley. The Ford one hits the frame. The March aluminum one works fine.
Installed your clutch cable yet? Problems you can avoid.