Not Ranked
Guys,
Sorry for the confusion. Due to the fact that I type about 5 wpm, I tend to shorten my thoughts to things like "weld on method". To my knowledge, there are two methods to correctly index your bellhousing to the block if you find you have excessive runout. The first, is to purchace offset dowels available from Lakewood. I thought this would be a very simple approach as I was only 0.007" out. But in my hands this method did not work well. I chased my tail for an hour and must have worn my cam flat turning the engine over and over My biceps are looking pretty good however. The second ("weld on") method went very quick and easy for me. Lakewood sells longer dowel pins and very thick"washers", that I would call a short sleeve. R and R the existing dowel pins with the longer pins, then enlarge the dowel pin holes in your bellhousing by 1/16th inch. Now you have alot of freedom to move the bellhousing around. Next, lightly sung all the bellhousing bolts, and check your alignment. If you are off, tap the flange on the bellhousing with a hammer. Repeat till you are on the money, torque all the bolts to spec. and recheck again. When all is well, slide the thick washers over the long dowels (which stick out beyond the bellhousing) and weld the washers to the bellhousing. Given the number of times you will have to mount the dial indicator and how difficult it is to do with the magnetic base, the jig is a smart way to go. I could remount in 30 sec with zero frustration and get repeatable measurements. If anyone has problems removing the old dowel pins, I'll hire a typist and give you my method for that. I'll try and post a picture of the indicator stand here or in my gallery. If I'm unable(highly likely) e-mail me and I'll shoot you off a photo. Mrmike , I got your e-mail and I'll send you one.
Good luck all, Steve D***ey
|