PMERacing kit is good. KB pistons good for warm/hot street pump gas motor. If you're going to be top-ending it a lot, go forged. ARP hardware. FMS billet steel flywheel, and billet steel crank balancer.
Go with CompCams hydraulic roller. 224/230 is good for street, but make sure cam will retrofit early non-roller 351W block. These require smaller base circle lobes to use OEM Ford hydraulic roller lifters. Comp does have a 224/224 retrofit cam, but I like the 224/230 dual pattern better for use with mufflers.
Use the springs that Comp furnishes with the cam, not the springs that come with the heads. Send the springs off to have an
oil retentive polymer coating applied before installation. Keeps them cooler, and they last longer.
Check the rocker arm geometry very carefully. You'll likely need a set of custom length pushrods for this.
CompCams makes ProMagnum chromemoly steel roller rocker arms, 1.6 ratio, 7/16" studs. Use these with ARP hardware for street use. Steel rocker arms for street engines.
Look at the AR 205 heads with 2.08/1.60 valves for stroker motors. You have 400 inches to feed, not 350. The AR 205's seem to be made for this, yet only raise the exhaust port 1/8", so your stock headers will fit. The TFS-R head is great, but need custom headers.
Ede performer RPM air gap is OK, but will take longer to warm up on the street. OK for where you live.
Use Holley 750 double pumper or Demon 750 double pumper. Folks are leaning towards Demons as a better, more tuneable carb. Either way, the carb will run too rich when you first bolt it on. Hydraulic rollers pull substantially more vacuum, and you'll have to lean the carb out. Don't put a Holley 3310 on this motor.
Go MSD with ignition chores, vacuum advance street distributor, 6A or 6AL box, and plug wires. If you buy a Duraspark now, you'll only be upgrading it to an MSD later. Come back and we'll tell you how to set it up.