[mr0077]

Dom, I got the book in 1975 when I went crazy and put a homebuilt turbo installation for a Datsun 510...ran 16 lbs of boost (good gas back then), with stock 9:1 compression, slightly modified timing curve...ran like a small-block Vette until I fried the stock clutch from too much torque...that book is like taking a class on turbos, EVERYTHING you need to make an intelligent decision. I think you're right on the twin turbo approach (if you go turbo vs. boring/stroking), for spool-up speed (turbo lag) reasons. McInnis comments that, for boost under 15 lbs (I think), stock-type bottom ends (on all except the absolutely WORST motors) are fine, since the additional boost pressures on the piston/rod/crank/bottom end are small in comparison to the reciprocating loads the bottom end sees at 5500 rpm or so. He also mentions that stiffer valve springs should be considered, as the boost pressure will provide a force that will tend to keep the intake valve off it's seat, and could promote intake valve float.
He seems to think the blow-through is not the way to go (difficult to seal entire carb, exposes carb to high temperature air, tuning problems, etc.)...suck-through is MUCH simpler to plumb and set up. He also mentions that you don't need a carb rated for total air flow at max boost, since carb ratings are for a specified pressure drop across the carb at the rated air flow, and the turbo barely notices a little pressure drop on the intake...so, a turbo motor would be happy with a carb rated at 650 CFM even though it might be flowing 750 CFM or so.
I must have read that book 3 or 4 times over about a month or two before I understood the total picture and how to do what I wanted to do...
I was VERY satisfied with my installation; you can't get power cheaper than with a turbo, and you only use it when you mash the loud pedal...most of the time you're motoring around with a relatively mild motor, and you may actually get better mileage due to the superior atomization in a suck-through application.
Good Luck!