[Sizzler]

My intent wasn’t to debate the merits of the various blocks, it was more about suitability for intended use.

If you’re racing, by all means build it to the limit; but if you do, then I hope you drive it to the limit as well.
Ask yourself what the real reason is for the engine…to impress, to fit in situationally (original), to perform and if so, perform in what venue? Impress…what would impress me visually I guess are the 2xPaxton’s, though your idea of impressive may simply be lots and lots of cubic inches and/or horsepower. Original, to me is some member of the FE family of engines, to others it can only be a 427 sideoiler (though remember the 428 cobras). Performance, to me would be overall, not simply drag racing, or track; there is no such all-around beast so if I was choosing, I’d choose road course performance. That means weight is a consideration (lightweight front wouldn’t concern me too much as I don’t drive fast enough for that to be an issue---just me), and engine performance within street rpm range. To me displacement is less important than usable power (thread on 14% wheel slip is very interesting, I assume that ties into the fact that when braking, locked wheels are less effective than ones only on the verge of lockup), in whatever engine family (3.5” steel, non-crossdrilled, FT crank all turned and dressed is about $1,000; 7” rods add $1,200; Boss 302 is made for this car, Tunnel Ports are the bomb). But that’s just my opinion and absolutely everyone else is different from me, have different drivers steering their course of actions, have different destinations in mind.

As for weight. It’s an issue on road courses. For drag-racing or street performance it’s probably better to have less weight. Just put in a brass radiator, an 8 gallon dry sump tank, or hang dumbbell weights up front (locked down)…considering the distance from the CG and moment arms, you wouldn’t even need to make up 100 pounds. If you want to get really persnickety, you could set up an arrangement of water tanks and pumps and lines to precisely balance out the four corners.

$20K engines may be desirable and doable by some, for others with fiscal limits, $10K may be too much. The whole point of replicas is getting something that’s virtually priceless, for a (to you personally) reasonable cost and I guess I didn’t like the direction this thread was taking: seemingly if you can’t afford a mid-teens engine, then don’t do it. And price, to me, doesn’t always translate 1:1 with value in this area, especially, again, if you’re talking cruising and not hard-core racing.

So going back to the original point, the actual cost of the upcharge for an AL block versus an NOS sideoiler;: they’re probably equal value pieces today, though you may find some vendors who have stockpiled an inventory of such blocks and are selling them on a FIFO basis, so you as the customer may benefit from their poor business practices. But to me, the actual cost of an AL block is like $7K by the time all the machining, special parts, and higher prices paid to the limited number of shops that actually work on them, is factored in (this may drop if Genesis blocks come in at the price and quality they say they will). And I look at that, and I look at the barn of old 390’s and 428’s at the T-Bird recycling ranch, and I don’t look back. “3 o’ them $150 blocks to go, there’s got to be one o’ them that’ll sonic to 4.125!” And when all’s said, done, built and the hood opens, most people won’t be able to tell what it is beyond big block Ford FE. (“that’s a 352 Ford son, we had one in our Country Squire…” real comment based on the block casting).

My opinion. As to watches, I sort of like that analogy. Some watches are good to like 20,000 leagues underwater. If you’re going down with Captain Nemo, then by all means, pay the money for that ability. But, if you’re just using it at or above sea level and the wettest it’ll get is in the shower, then what’s the point? I do have a watch that shows the movement, or at least the armature? that drives the electric generator…a Seiko that never needs batteries or winding. Amazing thing. I felt bad for its little dynamo while I was pruning trees what with the sweat and sawdust and pounding. Otherwise, any watch that keeps time is good to me, I put a Tissot into a pawnshop turquoise cuff, have a new (old-style) Hamilton. Worse thing about new watches is that you’re always replacing batteries or bands. The leather band on the Seiko for instance is $60, can’t be sourced from anywhere else, and takes 8 weeks to get. I’ve started ordering them 3 at a time. Which sort of ties into motors again, maintenance…solid lifters sound cool talking about things in a parking lot, but can be more than some people want to deal with. Ditto complicated induction (Webers). Point is, decide what will best please you in the real world, realistically assess your abilities and finances, don’t get all caught up in fashion (unless you hang with fashionista’s), THINK, run it all by your wife, then go from there.

fini