[weendoggy]

I'm going to put my .02 in. I have an FFR, no problems with any steering issues from day one. I have SN95 spindles with stock p/s rack (love it), stock rack bushings, bump steer tie rod ends, 4¼° caster, 2¼° camber and 1/16" total toe. Also running IRS with 2¼° camber and 1/16" total toe. Koni adjustable shocks on all corners and 450# front and 550# rear springs. Sway bars front and rear.

Before having the sway bars, I noticed a little push in the corners. I'd take that over being lose anyday. Once the bars were on, the car was much better in the corners. Push subsided and I could feel the cars reaction better. When the Koni's went on, a whole different thing happened. It became one fun car to drive!

I have never experienced the "bump steer" issues others claim to have. I don't even run the quad shocks. I spent the better part of last year getting my suspension to my liking. That doesn't mean it was no good, it just needed some "tweaking" for me. I don't know where someone thinks the upper joint is in front of the lower and the posted picture proves this point. We should remember we are dealing with a short wheel based car with a narrow track as well. That in itself will give you a ride if you're not careful.

In a perfect suspension setup, all the axis would rotate and pivot on the same plane but I don't think we want to spend that kind of time and effort just to get that when the car will perform just fine. The one thing that will help steering issues on these is to try your best to keep the pivot range of the tie rod the same as the lower control arm. This will keep the wheel from turning in or out during cornering or hitting those little bumps.

I suggest those who are having problems, tackle one item at a time. Once you start to "shotgun" the problem, you'll never know exactly what the problem was or what it took to solve it.

Klayfish,
I suggest you run a little more caster and camber. Maybe 3-4° caster and at least 1½° camber with 1/8" toe.