[computerworks]

A while back, Steve (X-CSX4027) posted this info on the spinner tool and spinner care:

"The spinner (tool) from FinishLine is a top-grade piece of equipment. It is a bit pricey and somewhat heavy to carry around (especially if you also carry around the one-inch diameter steel bar necessary to use the tool), but it works. I have one and it's about the only thing I've found which will loosen the spinners when they get tight without damaging the aluminum spinners. My garage floor is epoxy-painted and I tried to loosen one of the front spinners with the car still sitting on the ground; it just spun the wheel. I had to get the wife to hold the brakes and then it finally broke loose using the Finishline tool. This all happened because I had neglected to regularly remove and re-lubricate the spindle threads and the mating surface between the spinner and wheel with anti-seize compound like I was told. You should lubricate the threads and mating surface at lease once a year; every six months would be better.

I'm about to say something which will undoubtedly get me flamed (again), but here goes: you don't need to beat the spinners on. The wheel is prevented from rotating on the spindle by the PINS, not the friction force developed by the compression of the wheel against the spindle. The pins take the drive or brake torque from the wheels; the spinner only holds the wheel in place so the wheel properly engages the pins. I tighten mine up a reasonable amount and then safety-wire the spinners just in case they do loosen up. (And they DO loosen up sometimes; that's why they're illegal for racing nowadays.) Leave a little slack in the safety wire so you can tell at a glance if a spinner has loosened; you'll be able to tell because the safety wire looks tight. I've been driving my car for several years and have never had one loosen. This process, along with regular lubrication of the threads/mating surface, will allow you to get the spinners off with a lead or dead-blow hammer in case of emergency."
(CSX4027)

Also, here is a close-up of the preferred safety wiring from the Kirkham website: