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Attached is what a lead hammer looks like after continued short-time use in the Olthoff's Superformance shop. Dennis' recommendation is to hammer the knock-off until the pitch changes to a higher range. Hold the hammer with two hands; one on the handle and the other at the head. You don't have to beat the crap out of it.
Another thing: Dennis says you don't need to use safety wire. If the nut wants to come off, that little strand of 0.041-in. stainless wire isn't going to stop it. (I still like to use it.) Oh, be sure to use anti-seize on the threads and tapered section of the wheel/nut.
This information is solid simply because Dennis races his factory Cobra and also sees many customer cars in and out of his Mt. Ulla, NC facility. Also, we didn't safety wire GT40 knock-offs at KarKraft--didn't lose a wheel. The same was true at Indy during the days of hammering them off and on.
Another tid-bit: A lead hammer works best, although a dead blow can be used. Point is, lead is heavier and also operates the same as a dead blow.
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Tom
"If you can make black marks on a straight from the time you turn out of a corner until the braking point of the next turn, then you have enough HORSEPOWER." Mark Donohue
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