[mrmustang]

As sent to me by Jim Finerty

Sorry to be so long in answering but here goes....this is assuming your car
was file finished - not sanded from Kirkham. If it was sanded from Kirkham
start out from the 220 grit below.
ALWAYS SAND IN ONE DIRECTION - IF YOU "CROSS HATCH" YOU WILL BE SORRY. Start out with 80 on the really rough areas Once the 80 areas are done go to 120 - Wet sanding works best next starting with the 220 grit paper - I did a fender at a time, progressing from one area to the next - seeing progress was critical to my mental health. Then go to 400 600 800 1000 and 1500 -all wet Sanding dry makes too much dust and is bad for you and using a mask is a pain in the ass. Always use a sanding block - there are a variety of them for sale on the
Eastwood site...On the door trunk and hood openings use 220 then 400 and use your fingers. Around the cowl area cut strips of sandpaper an inch wide and as long as the sandpaper you are using and then use the sandpaper like you would be buffing your shoes....this gets the edges of the cowl nice and even .... If you are going to polish the car like mine is then you need to get a
quality buffer like a Makita - they run about $240 - as well as about 4 or 5
wool pads - also you will need some aluminum polish - I used Truckers Choice get the big size - I think it runs about $30 - I like it because it pours
nicely and it works. Use the polish fairly sparingly and clean the buffs frequently - you have to wait for them to dry before you can clean them - that is why I got a bunch of them - so while the dirty ones are drying I could keep working. Do a small section and then inspect it closely - you are looking for small sanding scratches....if you see any then you need to go back to the 1000 paper and wet sand the entire car again. Repeat until like a mirror.
It does take a while, be patient. I would say that after I thought I was ready to buff I went over the car
another 3 times with the 1000 grit.