[CRZN427]

rem, and others,

As long as we have opinions we will have something to say.

There is a lot of talk about the "little" FFR, and the "light "FFR.

If you check the basic dimensions you will find that the FFR is the same size as the original cars, that is, with a 90" WB. I haven't exactly measured the width but I'd venture to guess it is the same also.

The FFR might be lighter than other kits but probably not as light as the originals, or the Kirkham (and current SAI) cars with the availability of aluminum bodies. The fact that it is light is one of the advantages to the FFR, fewer pounds per available horse power.

The other fiberglass kits that I have seen, and I haven't seen them all, tend to have thicker glass on the body. Most of these cars rely on the extra thickness of the body to hold it in shape without any support beyond the chassis connections and the frame section that attaches the windshield, the foot boxes, the pedal box and the steering assembly around the dash area. Some have a little additional chassis support at the hood and trunk hinge locations.

The FFR has a thin fiberglass body that requires a "sub frame" to support it, like the origonal cars needed a sub frame to support the aluminum body. Additionally, the chassis is the same basic design as the original cars with round tubes for the main frame members.

There is probably a trade off between the sub frame that the FFR has and the extra weight of fiberglass in the body that the other cars have. I believe that FFR has an additional advantage here in that they utilize all aluminum paneling for the inner body sections around the wheel wells, trunk, fire wall, transmission tunnel and the perimeter of the cockpit.

These panels weigh considerably less than the "fiberglass tubs" that the other kits use (except, of course, the aluminum bodied cars from Kirkham and SAI).

As for the "donor" concept, the FFR cars were designed to be an easy simple build that took advantage of being able to get all the necessary parts from FFR and one "donor car".

The concept was for simplicity of building a car without having to run all over creation to assemble the parts necessary to put your dream together.

In the earlier days of FFR there were several builds that were documented to be under $15K to have a drivable car. I also remember of a couple of "one day builds" where several experienced folks got together and assembled a car in one day.

Along with this simplicity was the decrease in cost that FFR was able to pass on to the buyer, a buyer who was, at first, not willing to put $40K into a car of this sort. The Smith Brothers must have gotten it pretty close to right because they have sold, and continut to sell, more cars than all of the others (combined I think).

When several buyers got beyond the less expensive portion of their build they found that they wanted to have the original style big block, after all that is the essence of the Cobra.

The FFR will accept the larger engines and transmissions, like the other kits, they were a close copy of the originals in dimensons and the engines will fit without problem. FFR has a section in the build manual for the installation of a 429/460 big block, so it is no surprise that several have done so.

In their efforts to provide what the buyer wants, FFR designed and markets an independent rear suspension. They also offer a "three link" (which utilizes the standard rear axel) that is almost as good, as the independent style, in many of the performance applications in the Cobra racing world. Additionally, the FFR independent rear suspension will bolt up under the Mustang, if you don't want to use yours for the donor car.

The FFR body does look different, with it's "perky butt" but if you take careful measurements of the other Cobra replicas you will find that they all have differences in the body, some significant, none as noticable and the FFR trunk.

There are as many ways to build a car like these as there are builders. Some want something that will nearly pass as an original, some just want a nice street roadster, others want a fast racing machine while still others want a show and shine trailer queen.

You can get out of the car pretty much what you put in it, as long as you do a reasonable job of assembly and pay attention to details. Don't scrimp on accessories either, that will give a sour appearance to any car regardles of the initial cost.

Do the necessary research, visit the factories, visit local shows where more and more Cobra replicas are being shown, visit the race events and see who has the power (I seem to remember that the small block cars were out performing the big block cars at the last Run-N-Gun) try to talk some owners into a ride and a drive if possible.

You have to decide what is important to you, then from what is available, you might be able to make up your mind.

Good luck and happy hunting.