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Brent
I did not read all the posts so if this was already stated forgive the repeat.
"By the way, I'm adjusting the valves by starting with #1 cyl, when the exh starts to open, adjust the intake (do the same for all cyl's) then back on #1 when the intake is almost closed, adjust the exhaust (do same for all cyls). [/b]"
Your lash method is a little different than the norm but considering the points at which you choose to lash should work. The only variable that may occur is (forgive this suggestion) that you may be mixing up the intake and exhaust valve positions in the cylinder heads. As they reverse positions for the front two cylinders to the back two. This would cause you to be lashing the intakes when they are slightly open.
The best way to lash a long duration cam is to lash each cylinder at TDC. If you do not have a fully degreed dampener you can put your engine on #1 TDC, rotate your dist. to where the rotor points directly at #1 on the Dist cap. Then mark on the body of the dist. where #1 is located. You can then mark every cylinder wire location around the body off the cap towers. Heat up the engine, rotate to #1, lash, then follow the timing order to complete. This method assures accurate lash settings.
The method discribed by Steve Christ is an excellent method when using a stock or low duration/ large LDA cam. But should not be used with a cam of your size. Large gross duration lobes may through this method off.
Once you lash at TDC for each cylinder you can eliminate the option of the open or low lash variable that may exist with your current lashing method.
I hope this helps and good luck.
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