[Jack21]

Don't know if Bethania has these upper control arm adapters on his webswite, or not. I learned about them from Ed Combs (DV), and called Tom Beroth about them direct. 336-922-3018. I think he makes them up special, rather than keeping them in stock. Had to replace the bolts sent with the bracket kit for my setup, shorter for the frame bolts, longer for the arm bolts. Tell you what, though; after setting the front end alignment the Ford way before installing these brackets, only to have me bring it back every coupla weeks 'cause I went over a bump too hard and the suspension collapsed again (inner upper control arm "T" bolts move to the inside end of the slot), he all but kissed me after I installed these brackets. The car took 1/2 hour, instead of 2 1/2 hours to align with shims (like normal cars), and it hasn't collapsed since. All for a hundred bucks.

Lowering front end with coil overs? Something doesn't sound right if you've got the spring adjusted all the way down, and car still sits too high (or you've got the spring adjusted all the way UP and the car still sits too low). Sounds like you're using the wrong spring. Big blocks use the 500#/" spring, and small blocks use the 350#/" spring. I've got a 351W w/ aluminum heads, intake, water pump, radiator, steering rack; use the 350#/" springs and adjustment is about 1/3 up the spring perch on the shock, and ride height is fine.

Advise some caution on shortening front track on MII suspension. Read the rather detailed treatise on Heidts website on modifying MII front suspensions.

That being said, the Classic Roadsters has the builder remove 7/8" from each outer tie rod on the rack (as opposed to making the rack 7/8" shorter on each end), the upper and lower control arm inner pivot points and inner rack pivot point do NOT form a exact straight line as Heidts article would indicate, and the car (nor any other CR that I've heard of) exhibits any bumpsteer.