[Michael C Henry]

I have come to a point where I think I just waisted a couple hundred dollars and several months. My wife helps me make the payments on the car. It fit me just great ,she's a little taller.I had the fiberglass buckets reappolstered in leather.The drivers seat was originaly tipped up in the front with a pair of wood blocks 12" long ,1 1/4" at the front and tapering to nothing at the other end.I made an alluminum a plate w/ bent and welded stiffining edges to cover enough of the bottom to cover the glued edges underneith the seat. I made a pair of alluminum tapered channels to replace the wood and make a place to attach sliders. I bought the thin sliders fron Summit Racing ,both sliders lock.I had to make a spacer with a void to allow for the interconnecting rod to the other slider without a handle .I planned ,bent the metal, made special peices , constantly fitting and adjusting ,welded,sand blasted ,painted, installed riv-nuts. It added about 1 1/2" to the heigth.I do not have the smallest nor the largest thighs and my clearence undr the steering wheel has disappeared.I twisted the seat to point at the pedals which makes the inside of the seat parrallel with the tunnel. The seat is leaned inward so the back will fit inside the wheel well for maximum travel. I thought I had anticapated everything. I may go back to the wood.
The Shelby tubular frame seats were a lot higher to begin with their sliders were thicker and more expensive and only one side locked.
Who has tried adjusters? Who still is using them ? Who went back to bolting directly to the floor? Who has a story?