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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 01-09-2002, 09:01 PM
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Venum S- All looks good to me to. You found the base cam w/the Comp. cams that I used in my last bomb. As I said I split the overlap 2 degrees and increased the duration on both sides 7 deg. to. I used Crain rollers and rockers to.
As for the .7 lift thing, they work. Just not for very long on the street. Maybe 15k miles you will notice valve resession into the head and horsepower will go south to. Really slaps the valve around hard.
On those heads you are thinking of, I would pocket port them and port match the exaust side. I would also use a Wieand (sp?) intake manifold to.
You will also probably have to fly cut the pistons for valve clearance. You didn't mention comp. ratio.
Expect 650 REAL horsepower and about the same in torque, not 800 peak that sells magazines. That will push a street 2500 lbs Cobra to the low 10's , maybe high 9's. Depends on the setup.

That brings me to the last thing. The motor is only 40% of this thing. Controling that power will be a huge factor. ($$$$$$$) What kind of car are you going to wrap around that engine?
Have you addressed the safety issues that will come with this engine/car ? Believe me ANY organised sanctioning body will. Right now that's the war I am fighting. The engine is the small piece indeed.

cobrashoch
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 01-10-2002, 06:14 AM
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VenomS,

Here is some of the info. Way too much to type in, but I can xerox the sheet and fax it or mail it to you. Let me know. It is the Feb. issue of Hot Rod. Almost all of the parts are Ford SVO including the forged steel crank. Apparently this company will build the whole thing for you and ship it to you in a crate ready to go:

http://www.racepartsgroup.com/index.html

Here is some of the highlites:

600 ci
850hp
750tq

Bore stroke: 4.600x4.500
Compression: 10.4:1
Block: Ford SVO Racing #SVOM6010A460
Crank: Ford SVO Racing forged steel 4.500 stroke, 3" mains #CRDC-CBF4500CD74
Rods: Eagle, forged #EAGCRS6800C3D
Heads: SVO aluminum Super Cobra Jet Flow = 370cfm intake, 235cfm exhast. #SVOM6049SCJ
Cam: SVO solid roller 304/308. 254/258 @ .050, Lift = .647 in/ex #SVOM6250A514
Intake: SVO single plane #SVOM9424H429


There is tons more detail and every single part listed, but these are the key elements.

Ed
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Old 01-10-2002, 07:46 AM
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Cobrashoch -

Thanks for the advice. As for what's going "around the engine", I plan on using a McCleod blowproof bellhousing, McCleod dual disk clutch, Tremec TKO 5-speed, 8.8 live axle with an Aburn Pro Posi, 3.55:1 Moser gears, and Moser 31-spline race axles.

To stop this monster, I'm installing Wilwood 13x1.250 vented rotors with 6-piston calipers in the front, and Wilwood 12.2x.81 vented rotors with 4-piston calipers in the back.

I really don't plan to drag race this car. OK maybe a few times. But I will take it out on the road race track to see how it does.

CobraEd -

Thanks for the part numbers. My fax is 818-586-0146.

Again, much thanks for helping me with this.

Venom_S
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 01-10-2002, 10:27 AM
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Venum S- I see your using a Fr5 car as your base. Did you order the new optioal 3 bar setup for the rear? Sure looks good on paper anyhow. I think I would change the panard bar to a watts link if it was me but they say they have got it worked out. Sure would be the answer to that motors torque you are planning. Don't forget a driveshaft loop, and I would do something with that Fr5 rollbar setup if it was me. It scares me to death. Hope that Trimec holds up for you and good luck on your build, for me anyhow it's the best part of the whole thing.
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Old 01-10-2002, 10:34 AM
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Ron -

What's wrong with the roll bar?

Venom_S
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Old 01-12-2002, 03:59 PM
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Nothing is wrong with the bar itself. I just don't like the way it's mounted. I would use a passenger bar , beef up the mounting points and crossbrace them together. You see my problem is I have been upside down at 140 mph and was hit by another car to boot. NHRA rules saved my a*s ! Another thing to think about is the common use of 1/8 in. tubing in kit cars. After it's radiused, it thins out in the bend and will not pass a NHRA sonic check. For that reason most chassis builders for NHRA cars use .135 tubing for their cars.
Food For Thought??
I will be building a FR5 car one of these days. Allways wanted to do that but first I need to sort out this other beast I have on my hands here allready. Good luck w/your build .
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