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  #41 (permalink)  
Old 05-08-2006, 08:55 PM
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Tim, man I don't know what yours would be overheating so much. My changes so far have really helped and I have not done the fan shroud yet. BTW - yours looks really nice!!

Undy - the inlet shroud really helps, but I would make sure you don't have a big voltage drop.

You guys are not running a high concentration of anti freeze are you? Too much greatly reduces cooling effect.

Bruce
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  #42 (permalink)  
Old 05-09-2006, 06:15 AM
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Tim,have you pressure checked your cooling system and/or retorqued your head bolts ?

Bruce,are you going to be at the AER Show this weekend ?
That shroud looks to be the answer for my LSC as well.That certainly made a big difference for you.I'll take 10* cooler at idle !
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  #43 (permalink)  
Old 05-09-2006, 08:10 AM
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Hey Fred,
I haven't done either , maybe I should check into those.
Thanks,
Tim
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  #44 (permalink)  
Old 05-09-2006, 08:14 AM
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I am going to try to be at the AER show. Don't know the time yet.
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  #45 (permalink)  
Old 05-09-2006, 08:38 AM
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Tim,I suspect you might be getting hot gases into the cooling system.
Sears has a kit that is fairly cheap.It works very well.If you are going to be at the AER Show,I'd be glad to loan you mine.

Bruce,hope you make it.I'd like to see what all you have done.
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Old 05-09-2006, 09:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rblong
Undy - the inlet shroud really helps, but I would make sure you don't have a big voltage drop. Bruce


Bruce, Do you have any pics that you can email/post of the inlet shroud? (undy@cox.net) I'll check this weekend on the voltage drop. How about glycol/water cooled Spiral Turbo side pipes?? Cooler engine and no side pipe burns.. With a little design it might be doable..

I just got off the phone with Griffin. They seem fixated on the water pump pulley having to be 30% smaller that the harmonic pulley, more so than air flow/sealing.

Dave
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  #47 (permalink)  
Old 05-09-2006, 10:57 AM
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I would talk to Ron at Griffin since he is the one that knew Cobras. He never mentioned pump RPM to me, he was all about shrouding! Don't you hate when you get mixed recs from a manufacturer!!! I took some pics last night just for reference of some thing I want to cut differently on my final upper shroud. The one I built (first fab) still needs some fixing up. Look at Tim Brewer's galery and he has some good shots of his.

I will have to look at my schedule for the AER show.

B
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Old 05-09-2006, 03:28 PM
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Default Do you know about the new 3000CFM Spal?

Do you know about the new 3000CFM Spal?

Same form-factor as the 2300cfm 16" fan, but 3000CFM capacity.

Assuming you're using the 16" puller, this is a direct replacement and flows a ton more.

http://www.the-fan-man.com/shop/prod...roducts_id/216

If you're building a shroud, you might want to build it to fit that monster.

Byron
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  #49 (permalink)  
Old 05-09-2006, 08:18 PM
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Thanks Byron. I was measuring and making a drawing for fan shroud tonight and I will have to pull intake shrouds and radiator to fab so this may be a good upgrade also since I will have it all out.

On another note - I measured my pulleys tonight and my pump pulley is 6" and my harmonic pulley is a 5.5".. This means my pump is about 8%underdriven. Looks like I need to do something about that also. So I have to go with a 5 inch pump pulley or a 6.6 harmonic pulley? I am not sure I can go as small as a 5" on pump. The harmonic pulley would be easiest, but then I wil be speeding up alternator - is this gonna hurt.

The rabit hole keeps getting deeper!!! But it is a heck of a lot of fun.

Bruce
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  #50 (permalink)  
Old 05-09-2006, 08:41 PM
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Now I am confused as H---, since other than the link to Stewart components Summit and Jeggs all sell underdriven for "better performance". Even the March set is 5.5" crank and 6.75" water pump. More investigation is needed!

I hope to make it to AER and then maybe we can compare notes over something cold.

Bruce
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Old 05-10-2006, 05:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rblong
Now I am confused as H---, since other than the link to Stewart components Summit and Jeggs all sell underdriven for "better performance". Even the March set is 5.5" crank and 6.75" water pump. More investigation is needed!

I hope to make it to AER and then maybe we can compare notes over something cold.

Bruce

Bruce, I think their referal to "better performance" actually means more horse power due to less parasitic drag. If you've a cooling system with some cooling "redundancy" built into it then you can afford to slow down the water pump a little. This is a popular mod with the late model stuff. That's where the pulley manufacturer's profits lie. We just happen to be the exception to the rule.

I think my path leads in several ways...

1. change my upper pulley and v-belt to give me a 30% smaller diameter
2. find the highest CFM fan possible. (sort through the bogus MFR's CFM
ratings)
3. upgrade my fan electrical system to handle the increased amp draw
4. fabricate and install a new inlet shroud
5. do a "Evans Collant System" conversion. (I like the thought of it not
boiling till 374 deg w/ zero system pressure. It's pricey though... $30+
a gallon. I'll buy 5 gallons just to have a "spare" change.
5. Maybe fabricate an aluminum fan shroud??


I need to get the cooling system ready for the 500 inch side oiler motor that I'm building this fall.... can u say G-E-N-E-S-I-S ???

Dave
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  #52 (permalink)  
Old 05-10-2006, 08:08 AM
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I do not have the room for a smaller water pump pulley. The inside diameter of the pulley is already almost touching the water pump housing. All I could do is change the crankshaft pulley. Have not found anyone that makes one yet. I am not sure I will need it. I really wanted to sneak away yesterday and drive mine since it was close to mid 90's here, but just could not get away. It would have given me a good indication of where I was at with mods.

This thread is getting pretty long, but it is revealing some good information I think.

I would be concerned about letting my system operate hot (with the additive) since you could do other damage from warping and such.

Bruce
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  #53 (permalink)  
Old 05-10-2006, 08:43 AM
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I talked with Evans tech this AM and the guy was very helpfull.. We talked for about twenty minutes on the subject. He also informed me the Edelbrock's water pumps flow quite a bit less than the stock pumps, ie: you must overdrive it to get the same flow as the stock pump. Ebock does this to have less of a parasitic loss. I wonder if there's an impeller mod out there for it?? Even though Evans fluid temps are higher the head/cylinder temps are actually lower. Check it out at www.evanscooling.com/main1.htm

I'm going to do some research on a different pulley combo..

more to follow....
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Old 05-14-2006, 07:32 AM
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Bruce,
With the tempts in the low 90's yesterday,where you able to get anymore test drives in ?
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  #55 (permalink)  
Old 05-14-2006, 09:41 AM
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Yes, I drove over to the AER show (late because of honey dos). I believe I saw your car (almost same color as mine), but I asked a couple of people and no one answered up. I was there about 2ish. I was wearing a cobra shirt - big ugly guy! Snooped around all the cobras for a good while.

The only guy I talked to had a SPF with 5.0 Ford. Saw a lot of different set ups, several with dual fans but most lacked the shrouding I think is needed.

I had no problems at all running the highway. All the way over and back never saw over 185. And I was not babying her either! I was hauling a-- most the way back. At stop lights she would get up and run on fan - a lot of fan but maintained 200. The inlet shroud has helped a lot and I think the fan shroud is the next project. Ultimately if I have to I will go with a larger CFM fan.

I wished I could have hooked up because I wanted to meet you. Other than this post I never get to talk to Cobra guys. I try to hit all the car shows I can, but I don't have the patience to enter and have to sit there with my car all day - I want to be driving it!

Bruce
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  #56 (permalink)  
Old 05-14-2006, 11:24 AM
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I was there all day long.My son & I were sitting there under the carport with all the Cobras.I was looking for you.Wanted to meet you as well and see your work.

John Ross has a KC 482" that he has a shroud on.His experience with the shroud is the same as yours.Major difference while moving and some while sitting in stop & go.
He checked out mine.He noticed that my fan wasn't dead fluch with the rad.Mine came from LSC with something like edge molding installed on four areas.That molding causes an air gap that creats a path of least resistance for the fan to pull air from.This makes sense to me and I'll pull that molding off the first chance I get.AND make a shroud.He also thought my rad might be tilted back a little too much.I've changed that once,might move the top forward somemore.

" I was wearing a cobra shirt - big ugly guy!" - Bruce,No wonder I couldn't pick you out of the crowd.You look like most all the Cobra guys there !!!
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  #57 (permalink)  
Old 05-14-2006, 11:44 AM
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Surely we will meet up next time. Let me know any cars shows on your side of town and I will do the same over here.

I am always looking for a reason to take a cruise.

Bruce
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  #58 (permalink)  
Old 05-16-2006, 09:12 PM
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I have posted some pics in my gallery of my shroud I am making. Still in the ROUGH stage, but all the fan shroud needs now is the seems welded, aluminum brushed and rubber stripping added on the sides so it seals air gap I left so it does not ride against radiator aluminum. Will start on final fab of the inlet tomorrow. I will post some pics of it as I go.

Bruce
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Old 05-17-2006, 06:14 AM
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I'm VERY impressed Bruce.Your pictures explain a lot.

How deep did you make it at the top ? It looks like it tapers towards the bottom.Is that for clearance for the water outlet ?

What tools did you use to cut the fan opening ?

With the tempts being back in the 90's in a day or so,it should be great for more testing.

It is really going to look good too.
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Old 05-17-2006, 07:36 AM
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Yes, to clear the water outlet and the steering gearbox I had to taper it from top to bottom. The top depth is 1" and the bottom 1/2". I also undercut the sides to allow for an additional 1/4" so I was assured I would not be in the fins. That is where I am going to use a rubber edging to seal the sides to the radiator. Should make a nice air tight seal without damaging radiator. The slot I cut in the bottom are where the factory radiator supports are. They fit pretty tight when i place and I won't loose much air there either.

I just used standard sheet metal cutting shears/tools. Really all done with a big set of shears and an edge tool - all can be bought at Home depot - or you can borrow mine when I am done. Cut the hole for fan with a jig saw with a 32 tooth metal blade.

I hope to get the inlet out and starting to fit tonight. I hope to be done by this weekend and test it.

Keep you posted.

Bruce
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