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02-11-2008, 04:56 PM
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Senior Club Cobra Member
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Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Covington,
wa
Cobra Make, Engine: Superformance # 532, 466 BB, 560HP
Posts: 3,027
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Not Ranked
Header Bolts
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02-11-2008, 06:06 PM
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Senior Club Cobra Member
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Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: St. Augustine,
FL
Cobra Make, Engine: E-M / Power Performance / 521 stroker / Holley HP EFI
Posts: 1,929
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Not Ranked
Silverback51,
I tried them on my aluminum SCJ heads. I almost ruined one bolt hole.
Two things happened that I didn't like:
1) More than one of the setscrews fell out after the car ran through several heat/cool cycles.
2) The bolt itself resembles a tap; in trying to remove one of them to go back to the Stage 8 bolts, the bolt tried to tap one of the holes oversize. It apparently didn't collapse to its original shape when I took the setscrew out. Yikes!
Having said that, they may be OK for iron heads. Definitely not recommended for aluminum.
I told them this at PRI year before last and thought they were permanently withdrawn from the market. Maybe not.
I now use the Stage 8 bolts. They are a hassle to fit, but they seem to be compatible with the aluminum heads.
Hope this helps,
Tom
__________________
Wells's law of engine size: If it matters what gear you're in, the engine's too small!
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02-11-2008, 07:43 PM
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California Dreamin Member
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Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Hollywood,
FL
Cobra Make, Engine:
Posts: 611
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Not Ranked
Sorry for this slight hijack...
Tom,
I bought of Stage 8 bolts and am planning to install them when my headers come back from ceramic coating later this week. Do you have any installation tips?
Thanks,
Chuck
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02-12-2008, 06:15 AM
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Senior Club Cobra Member
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Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: St. Augustine,
FL
Cobra Make, Engine: E-M / Power Performance / 521 stroker / Holley HP EFI
Posts: 1,929
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Not Ranked
Chuck,
It's been more than two weeks since I put mine in
I recall having to take my time and study each little retainer individually. Some seemed to fit "as-is" and others required a bit of grinding to get them on snugly. If they weren't ground down a little, some of them would not go on at all. This is part of what I meant by "hassle". The other part is getting the C-clips on - I had to use the Braille method and some real contortions
One other thing I did was to mark each one so if I ever had to take them off, I could get them back in the same spot; this means marking them so I knew which side faced the head. I did do this once and (mostly) got them back on satisfactorily.
The good news is they were harmless to the heads, and I could R&R the headers if I had to. A real PITA.
All in all they were worth it because header leaks are few and far between now, where they used to happen every other week especially if I abused the car a bit by taking it to the track.
I tried good quality header bolts early on, and they just wouldn't stay.
Tom
__________________
Wells's law of engine size: If it matters what gear you're in, the engine's too small!
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02-12-2008, 09:48 AM
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Senior Club Cobra Member
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Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Covington,
wa
Cobra Make, Engine: Superformance # 532, 466 BB, 560HP
Posts: 3,027
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Not Ranked
Thank you for the input.
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02-12-2008, 11:53 AM
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Renegade Nuns on Wheels
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Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: columbus,
Oh
Cobra Make, Engine: Unique 427 roadster with 351C-4B
Posts: 5,129
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Not Ranked
Try safety wire after a retorque.
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02-12-2008, 12:14 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Virginia Beach, Va & Port Charlotte, Fl.,
Posts: 2,284
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Not Ranked
Go with the Stage 8s. I had the "split bolt" ones in some aluminum heads I had on a 383 SBC. If they weren't loosening up, then they were galling the threads. If there were no expansion, contraction and/or vibration they'd work fine..
__________________
Too many toys?? never!
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02-12-2008, 04:47 PM
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Seasoned Member
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Join Date: Apr 1999
Location: Portsmouth,
VA
Cobra Make, Engine: Unique 427 S/C, Dart 427W "Replica" Ford engine
Posts: 584
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Not Ranked
I agree with rdorman. ARP makes a nice set of pre-drilled stainless header bolts ala NASCAR.
Bill Stradtner
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