Heat, heat and more heat!!

[DocDirk]

Brent, I had to create a "T" of fittings at the top of the thermostat housing to allow both the pipe from the surge tank and the temp. gauge to use that spot. I've since moved the temp gauge to the bottom of the block (thought I might be reading steam at the "T"). Now I have a plug on one side of the T and can unscrew that to vent from the highest spot when filling. Thanks for the recommendation!

Dirk

[kitcarbp]

Dirk, Temp sender should remain in top of manifold to ensure you are measuring accurate temp. Coolant temp in block is lower than intake manifold. Post us a pic of your thermostat air bleed connection.

[Mohuska]

Another WCC owner. Seems we have our share of overheating problems. I have owned my WCC along time and have never been able to get rid of overheating issues. I am taking back to engine builder this next week to make some changes and will try to tackle overheating issues.

I see that this thread is several months old. I would really like to hear of some successes in taming the heating problems.

[SoTxButler]

A friend of mine with a WCC has the same overheating problems. His has AC and it appears the fan is mounted too far away from the radiator. He is going to mount it closer but has not done so yet. It should be mounted as close as possible but no further than 3/8" to 1/2" at most...the closer the better.

How close is your fan to the radiator?

[DocDirk]

Yep thanks, the fan is quite close to the radiator, about 1/2". I finally installed the 45 amp 3500+ CFM monster fan into the shroud and put on a variable thermostatic sensor to trigger the fan, set it at 160 degrees for now and the car runs 195 degrees fully warmed up this summer in 90-100F ambient most all of the time, and that takes about half an hour of driving to achieve. I might push the fan trigger up to 180. Heats up to 200F in temperatures over 100F ambient, but that's also not a superfun time of day to be cruising anyhow. Did hit 215 on a 107F day in town, but then what a loon I was to take it out then LOL, I think I too hit 107 by that time! It will run 180-185 on a cooler day, say 80F degrees ambient.

Come to think of it, I reread this thread and never did fully open my heater core to be sure it doesn't contain trapped air that might enter the system at some time. I'll do it.

This winter I'm going to front-shroud the radiator for perhaps a bit more cooling air entry.

Regards and thanks!

Dirk

[mdross1]

If all checks out with cooling system,and you are confident that your gauge is accurate,try and live with the occasional 225 degree temps.The 60's big block Vettes used to run those temps all the time and with lesser quality oil than todays.As long as you have done all you can do,enjoy your ride.

[OCCOBRA]

Unless I missed it nobody has addressed the front shrouding of the Rad. I have an FE that would overheat on the freeway and the street. Run it at 70 for 1/2 hour and I would hit 230. Run it at 30 mph stop and go and I would over heat eventually. Tried all the stuff, underdrive, overdrive, new high flow pump,Tstats, burping etc. Finally added a 3000 cfm fan with better shroud on the back side of the rad...helped a little. Shrouded the front of the rad and high speed temp corrected, still same prob on street. Somewhere I read a 4000+cfm would be required for the size rads we put into our cars with BBs. Put in a Mark V fan suggested by another post on the forum and WOW what a difference on the street. Was 109F the other day and I ran 200F on the street. If you put in a high amp draw high cfm fan don't forget to upgrade the alternator. I have had over amped alternators catch fire (not a good thing on any car especially a fiberglass one) I put in a race alternator that at 2500 rpm rotor speed (1000 rpm crank idle) I put out according to dyno test output from alternator from mfg is 95 amps, @ 5500 rpm crank it will put out 156 amps. A bit pricy at $230 but I know that at idle I will have plenty of voltage/current to handle fan + Ignition, and all lights etc. Shroud your front and go for the 4000+cfm fan problem solved! By the way a used Taurus SHO fan 4000+ cfm or a Conteniental MV 5500 cfm fan is about $50.00

[mdross1]

My big block with 2600cfm fan,and with all air going through radiator runs 190, 99% of the time.Stop and go traffic,with above 85 ambient it creeps up to over 200,once moving back to approx 190.Also have oil cooler both are correctly shrouded.

[Mdman352]

I believe I have found the cure. Use a Lincoln Mark VIII fan with shroud. This is a 2 speed unit but mine is wired for 1. With a little trimming it fits just fine. I cannot get my FE to over heat. Believe me,I have tried. I did have to upgrade my alternator as this fans draws 45 amps, but if over heating is an issue, go to the Ford dealer and buy this fan. End of the problem. David

[Bill Bess]

Check out the thread for El Marachi on his cooling problems.
It appears that all the things mentioned above are correct. In addition, a good high powered fan and fan shroud is the key. Check out the Ford Tauras Fans on E-bay...$50.00 bucks with the stock shroud and two speed fan.
Will solve the problem.

Bill

[elmariachi]

Originally Posted by Bill Bess

Check out the thread for El Marachi on his cooling problems.

Here the thread that discussed the problem and the ultimate solution, and here is the thread about the fan itself. The Taurus/Continental/Mark VIII fans are known throught the offroad and hot rod community as THE fan for solving airflow overheating issues. My 427 FE-powered car has not been over 195 degrees since the day I installed my fan, even idling in 100 degree stop-and-go traffic. .

[DocDirk]

Yep, Bill, I installed a 45amp monster fan and it made the most difference of all...shrouded of course. Paid waaay to much for it, of course, but that was before the Taurus fan threads.

David, have you driven your FE in traffic over hot asphalt on a 105F day? I tried it and hit 215F on the water temp. But I've noticed something in the last couple of months I should have seen before....the 200F mark is in the MIDDLE of my water gauge...could that mean that a wide variety of proper auto temps are served by the same gauge?... or that perhaps 200F is a reasonably well warmed up engine temp and I need to stop wetting my pants over temps in that general vicinity +/- 10-15 degrees?

Thanks for all the input!

Regards,

Dirk

[Mohuska]

Many thanks to all who answered. That gives me some very good ideas. I hope things work this time.

I had previously tried burping. I have a fan that comes on at 190 but I will look at getting a larger CFM fan. My WCC will run at 190 as long as I stay at 45-50 mph continuously. If I get on the gas at all, the temp will then rise above 240. If I drive less than 45, it overheats. If I drive stop and go, it overheats.......

I will try some of these new ideas....and I will let you all know the outcome. Thanks again!!