[rdorman]

Thanks Richard! The spreadsheet was started (where it is now) because I got tired of working every possible permutation on paper. Talk about tedious! By the way, you and I exchanged emails about a year ago as I was working through my braking issues. So thank you, you have been of great help to me. Also Fred Puhn's Brake Handbook (out of press but you can find it on Amazon) has been invaluable.

I will take you advise on the 10 stop recomendation for temperatures. Setting up a whole course would be really cool to do but the variables are endless. Much less as you just pointed out the biggest variable of all, the driver. Wasn't even thinking about that one. This is after all an effort to give a person a good place to start with out wandering around completely in the dark.

After working through all the numbers on paper on my car, then installing the parts as suggested by the numbers, the difference in braking for my was nothing short of astounding. At this point and for what I use the car for I would be done. But, as this as been a live and learn process, I missed a variable. The pads I selected had a VERY high coeficient of friction. I choose these pads because the made economic sense in the parts that would be required and because they made the numbers work the best. What I did not count on was that the pads where so bloody dusty that there is no way I can live with them on the street. So, back to paper I went with a pad that I could live with and was once again able to achieve good balance by throwing away the 10.75" rotors and putting on some 12.19" rotors. Live and learn!

Mike, there have been a number of wheel made like that. I beleive 'turbo' wheel is a common street name for them. Seems to me the results have been varied and often not overly effective. Richard would know much better than I but I think the air flow out of the wheel is more a function of the cars overall aerodynamics. To me, proper ducting would be a much better route.

Thanks all! Look for more updates in the future!

Rick