Pictures would be nice, but let's look at a few things.
1. The cam sits between a press in plug at the rear of the engine and the thrust plate at the front. If you R&Red the rear plug, it needs to be seated back where it was. If not, there may be problems.
2. The bolts that secure the gear to the cam are special. But, you can make your own if you have a lathe. Grade 8 ( a little added strength ) bolts and turn them to the right length and height. The thrust plate will have either one or two
oil galleys. To make this simple, there has to be a galley between the orfice offset from the cam hole that supplies
oil and the cam face.
3. Bolt the thrust plate with the galley towards the block and in the correct orientation. Use the thin head bolts. Then place a bolt in one of the cam holes and do a little end play check. Should move about 1/8 to 3/16". Now place the cam gear on the cam. If you are NOT going to use a mechanical pump, you can leave the excentric off. Run your bolt is and tighten. End play may be a little as .010 ( that's what it was on my last engine ).
4. Spin the cam a little. If it turns, but is hard, that may be from the "red snots" ( cam lube ).
You do not say what kind of pan you are using, but if blykins is right, I had to "dimple" my pan as well. Personally I do not know why you are installing a girdle, unless you are doing serious Rs. The 302/351 has good oiling and will rev to 8 to 10K with a high volume/high pressure pump and good blue printing. ( i've done it ) But if you are set on the girdle:
1. Install studs all around the engine base for the pan.
2. lower the pan on for a trial run. Note where is seems to hang-up. ( note; if you are using the Canton pickup, it may feel like it is hung up when in fact you had not cleared the edge of the screen )
3. Pull the pan back and see if you can see anything in the way.
4. If it is a stud, you can grind or cut to the top of the nut, but no further.
5. if it is the girdle, you need to make a call. ( personally; don't grind on the girdle )
6. if it is engine, mild heat and a ball peen hammer will allow you to dimple the pan.
7. Once you have the pan in a condition to go on, you need to test. Rotate the engine mass with two nuts holding the pan on. if it hits, more dimpling.
8. once you can rotate the mass and the pan appears to fit, remove the pan and place a small piece of clay or playDO ont he high spots. If you are too close, the pan will wear through and make a rather nasty hole.
9. .100" is as close as you want to be.
10. Play the pan gasket in place over the studs and secure with RTV ( smear with finger, NO globs ) and allow to dry. Do the saem with the end seals.
11. After the gasket in glued down, take a small amount of grease and cover the entire gasket. place the pan and secure all of the nuts.
I ask Canton about the windage tray. It was hard to understand the person, but he indicated I should use their tray. Anyway, I had to use grade 8 jam nuts with cut down studs to get everything to fit. You will want to safety wire the nuts to the studs after they are torqued. Here again, do the putty thing to find out what you have for clearance. Oh and one more thing, I had to dimple the windagfe tray as well to get the crank with the piston rods attached to turn.
The hump goes where the pickup is.
Gee, Earl. I hope this helps you out. I have done a lot of engines in my life and no two are ever the same. Let us know what you end up with.
