I think you have the best options with the block you have. With a hydraulic lifter block, you also have the option of running "newer" solid rollers that have
oil lubrication of their roller bearings from the lifter gallery, which is not possible if you have a solid lifter only block.
I think the hydraulic rollers are heavier than solid rollers, which means you have to run higher spring pressures to function at the same rpm's. In addition, I don't think hydraulic rollers like high spring pressures, so there is limitation to max rpm's. On the advantage, once set, hydraulic rollers don't need valve lash adjustment nearly as often as solid rollers, as if they get too much out of adjusment, the valvetrain can fail. Hydraulic rollers are in constant contact with the cam, so the transition to lift is smoother than a solid roller that first has to take up the valve lash, and there are more impact forces on the roller bearings which leads to failure over a period of time. This is where the newer solid rollers can help by providing direct oiling to their roller bearings, extending their life somewhat, but maybe still not as longlasting as a hydraulic roller.
Right now, I'm running a solid roller, about 1500 miles, no major problems yet. Maybe this winter, I'll check the lifters. Supposidly there now is a problem with billet distributor gears wearing out the billet roller cams, after only several races. I replaced my bronze dist gear after 800 miles, initially running conventional 20W-50, and there was some wear, groove on the teeth. After about 700 mi with a billet dist gear, I checked the teeth of the dist gear and the cam gear, and neither show any wear, but I switched to Mobil 1 10W30 right before I changed gears.