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I have done just what you want to do.All the others are correct.Don't try to do it.I spent about $750 getting the bare DOOe heads done.Another thing about those heads is they need at least hardened seats put into the exhaust side .I ported them my self(about 40 hours of work)then had 1.94 in. and 1.60 ex.(chevy) valves put in.Had the stud bosses milled and tapped for screw in studs.Had them milled (did end up with 9.5 cr).Another problem but not one caused just by old heads was I had to have the Performer RPM intake milled so the port roofs would line up.but anyone could have that problem.Its from the heads being milled so much that the head gets shorter.
The heads will bolt on with the shoulder washers.I have a 86 roller block.another potential problem with the old heads that I had is the possible old school machining caused the roller rockers to not line up on the valve stems(Left and Right that is).I had to use Isky adjustable guide plates.They are a P.I.T.A to adjust,but do fix the problem.
Also the push rods had to be very short to line the rocker tips on the valve stems.I had to get custom ones from crane.I think they were 6.150 long and about $150.But they line up !
So I fell into the old school trap of putting '70 351 heads on a 5.0 roller motor.
I wouldn't do it again.But I like you was on a budget and thought that was the way to go.So $1100- $750=$350.
I think I would save up alittle more and get aftermarket heads.
Oh I thought of another problem.The exhaust flange is kinda small around the port and the common 1 3/4 pimary header tubes will just bearly seal on the flange.you would have to use 1 5/8 headers.The aftermarket ones have a flat flange all the way on the exhaust side. You could run any size header.
As far as how they run,I don't know yet because I'm not done getting it into the car.I'll run them alright,but I think they'll be ok.I just wouldn't do it again unless you just want the experience of doing it your self like I do.
Rich
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