I thought 12° initial was enough.I knew it was a little more involved than just crank it up and let it fly.I have been dinking with this car for the last two years and getting lots of flack about unused liescenses and insurance. If I decide on a curve, when emmissions comes around I'll probably turn the distributer backing evrything down.The waiver process works like this I go to the emmissions testing station and have the car tested .It of coarse fails.I have to go to an approved emmissions repairer. He will do whatever he can to get it into compliance. If he doesn't include adjusting the timing back I'll mention it.I'm only obligated to spend $150.The repairer fills out and signs a form .I drive the car back to the emmissions testing station .The car is tested ,it probably fails again. Maybe a little closer to compliance. The people at the testing station shuffel and coppy some papers.and I leave with a waiver to renew the tabs.Anything I do myself before the initial test doesn't go towards the waiver.
If I find a curve that works ,mind you the testing I'll be doing will probably be seat of the pants, I probably won't mess with it again. That is why I'm asking for suggestion based on experiance. What I just got from this exchange is for emmission testing purposes , just turning backwards the distributer should bring everything back down to help the emmissions levels.As I remember they have you bring the engine up to 2500 rpm (cruise speed) and all out wont be tested.
Starting at 600 to 700 rpm with 10° t0 14° initial and all out 38°.by 2500 to 2700 rpm looks like a short graft.I have to warm up the engine before getting on the thorttle The ruetine will probably be to plug in the electric
oil heater for a few minutes ,start it up and pull the fast idle cam on where the choke used to be. open the garage doors ,open the gates to the alley and try to back the car into the alley, shutt the garage doors ,close the gates and It should be about ready to go. Shortly I'd be able to back the fast idel off and it would idle on the actual throttle stop at ( lets say ) 650 rpm. Ideling time is kept to mimimum as I've been told that the oiling around the cam and lifters sucks at low rpms.