Houston, we have a go for motor rebuild! Roger that, Go on throttle up.
Bear in mind the SAFE and politically correct answer to ANY motor rebuild question is ALWAYS: Replace everything and start over from scratch! How can you argue with THAT answer!
Myself? I'd be tempted to run the same rings in the same bore and leave the hone alone, under the conditions of THIS motor. Why hot tank? Whats wrong with "cold tank"? Wash the block and chase the
oil holes with a series of small brushes, etc. I ASSUME this block is pretty darn clean all ready and your getting any debris left over, out. Hot tanking won't scrub the
oil holes, just remove the cacked on
oil, dirt, etc. Clean and wash and leave the cam bearings alone (again I ASSUME those cam bearings were new before this happened). Of course inspection for damage is always warranted.
It's a good idea to relieve the pressure on the head bolts in a pattern, can't go wrong there!
I can't figure out why you would want to pull the wrist pin and those dreadful spiral locks? If you DID pull the locks I would consider replacing them with new because they are easily damaged taking apart. Inspect and replace rod/main bearings according to condition, if they show "scoring", go for new and "bottle brush" the crank oil holes, even hot tanking won't clean them good enough in this case.
Heres a tip: If the bearing shells stay on the crank journal when you pull the rod away that indicates the rod is NOT holding the bearing tight enough. Out of round or "to big" a rod, sort of thing. The bearings should stay with the rod halves on the tear down.
This motor has what, an hour of run time? I wouldn't replace SQUAT on this motor unless there was a darn good reason to "condemn" the part in question. And that includes the oil pump! Clean and reassemble.