Not Ranked
cobracooter, ok since mr e. wood has stated that i am a moron. please enlighten me as you seem to have the credentials what is wrong with my approach . i use only grade 8 nat. fine or better ie aircraft. fit every thing for grip length. an washers under head and nut, torque using an nylocks unless the application will be subject to heat,then i use an locking nuts when i am finished with the car i put a few miles on it then nut and bolt the entire car retorque every thing , rebleed the brakes using dot 4, change all fluids and then enjoy . while building the car i have all suspension crack checked any plating is done by platers that do aircraft work so they know how to bake the part to take care of hydrogen imbrittlement, i deburr every hole ,dress every panel first with file then , sand even if the panel is edged with rubber and will never be seen . these cars if run with 427's and bronze bushings produce a lot of vibration and need to be properly looked after in my opinion so no amount of attention to detail is overkill . i would also value your opinion on forging vs billet alluminumvs fabricated tubuler steel considering proper build quality for critical suspension pieces thankyou in advance for your help, jerry
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Past owner of:
KMS- 91, 92, 193, 196, 197, 205, 207 AND S024.
REAL SHELBY COBRA's OWNED
CSX 3355, 3358, 2200, 2571, 2295
GT40 #1086
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