Not Ranked
I don’t have any direct advice for you but would like to relay my hydraulic clutch problems. First of all my car has 6,000 miles on it.
A few months ago I took it to the engine builder to have it tuned on their dyno. I had changed carbs from a Edelborck 750 to a Holley 650. The car felt stronger but I wanted to know for sure, plus I wanted the mixture checked. BTW I went from 326hp to 335hp and torque from 305 to 350.
I had never had a problem with the clutch. That day on the trip home from the dyno run, after a 35 mile trip on the turnpike I went to pull off, but had no clutch pedal. I pumped it like crazey and some sort of pedal came back.
I went home jacked up the car and checked things out. My fluid level was down about ¾ of an inch. I went to bleed the slave and very dark and burnt fluid came out.
I think the dyno run over heated the master and or the line to the slave and cooked the fluid or possible the bushing or internal rubber parts. For the next hundred miles it kept going bad. The fluid would be black at the slave. I would suck out the fluid in the master, and empty the slave. I did this three times.
The solution was to replace the system. I ordered the Willwood cylinder from Summitt and the slave from NAPA. I had to pay $35.00 for a new slave; if they had a rebuilt model in stock I could have gotten it for $11.00. But when I replaced the parts I covered the line from the Master to Slave with a reflective insulated tube.
It’s been about 300 miles with some hard driving and an open track event, and all is well with the clutch.
__________________
JayB
Jupiter, FL
|