Thanks Tiger.
Bummer about the rod! you'd think they would at least put some good baffling in the
oil pan. This WAS a famous race car.
I figured that without a dry sump the Accusump was #1 priority. I got the elctric (ECP) high pressure valve (35-40 psi) hooked right into the ignition. Pretty idiot-proof. I'm running the stock rotors, but with street/track pads (EBC Red Stuff). Also put in Kirkey lightweight road race seats (they are terrific and not expensive, and save 20 lbs.), Sparco harnesses and a fire system. And I maxed out the castor and camber settings.
I understand from Dennis Olthoff that the springs are a bit soft for track, but if the rear is that loose you may want to go to a smaller rear sway bar, or a bigger front one. What tire pressures were you running front and rear? Does it come around predictably where you can catch it, or does it just go into a spin? I just sold the worst oversteering nightmare of a race car ever made (Ferrari 360 Challenge), so i'm real used to loose rears. I'm not real big on trailbraking anyway, having been taught by Skip Barber, but I can do it when I need to-turn 1 at Lime Rock, last turn before front straight at Sebring.
My biggest problem is my
oil and water temp gauges. They are totally off. They show 280-290 degrees when we measure 180-190 degrees at the coolant,
oil lines and radiator. Pressure is fine. Don't know if it's the senders or the gauges. Also, the overflow tank loves to vent itself of a few pints of coolant if I let it sit running for too long. I guess i'll get some baselines tomorrow then back to the shop.
The Roush motors are supposed to be excellent units (despite his failure at IRL). Are you going with the 402 or the 427? I'm very familiar with both.
I'll probably be at Summit Point in the early fall. hope to meet you. Good luck with the rebuild!
Steven