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That is valid, given a desire for maximum performance.
But we ignore that advice all the time. The key is how much boost do you need to run?
I have a 347 in the kid's car, as I mentioned earlier. It is 9.0:1 C/R and has forged internals, because I could, it would be sufficient with a cast steel crank and an aftermarket through bolt style rod.
The heads are Dart Windsor Jr aluminums ported to about what a Twisted Wedge does out of the box (but I already owned them).
I did run a girdle on the 2 bolt stock 302 block, but I have no illusions. If I break the block (and I will not) that will just keep me from driving over the crank.
The motor was tuned by Steve at powertrain dynamics using the stock computer from a 1991 Mustang. It doesn't run lean, and it doesn't detonate.
On the motor, it makes 410 FWHP (I didn't check it at the wheels). At 6 lbs of boost it makes 454 RWHP (I didn't check it at the flywheel). The time constraints of doing magazine articles precluded taking the time, and I really didn't care.
Now, with a 3100 lb Mustang my boy buried the 160m MPH Autometer speedometer while putting a Porsche in it's place.
Just exactly how fast do you guys want to push these things?
My motor in my old Backdraft Cobra is an easy 200 MPH car. I was probably close to it with the 418.
I didn't post this to be contentious, or pretentious, for that matter. I posted it because spending 25K on a motor is nice, and it can be fun, and it is absolutely necessary in some applications. But most of us aren't in that category......
Most of us just have to make certain that it doesn't run lean, and it doesn't detonate.
Oh, and while I never lived in Carroll's building, he did try to buy my company once.......
Last edited by Mark O'Neal; 08-11-2005 at 12:14 PM..
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