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Originally Posted by Sizzler
I've honestly never heard of a cast crank failure in an FE, stroked or otherwise. It will usually be some other component or the block itself that lets go before the crank does. This all presupposes that the crank has been inspected for cracks or flaws before being installed.
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I don't know how to put this and not sound like a smart-a$$, and I really don't mean to be, but I've still got to speak my mind...yes, I had my scat 4.250" stroke crank magnefluxed before I installed it. If you'll pay for the cost of a rebuild, I'll gladly take the engine to 6,000 - 6,250 RPM, where it makes it's peak power. I've got a Genesis block with main studs, shouldn't be any problem with that, Eagle 6.7" ESP rods, shouldn't be a problem there, and I have Crower HIPPO solid roller lifters, so there shouldn't be a problem there either. I also have Edelbrock Stage 3 heads by Keith Craft. This engine accelerates so much quicker than my previous 427 SO that they're not anywhere near being in the same league, and my old one ran a best of 12.16 @ 122mph on street tires at 1100' elevation. What it comes down to is the cast crank is the weakest link in this build, and I choose not to take it above what I consider the max RPM that it can safely handle, which is around 5500 RPM. I'm still working on my shift reaction time (the car is still faster than I am at times), have the shift light come on at 5,000 RPM and still hit the rev limiter, which is set at 5700 when shifting into both 2nd & 3rd. Part of that is age (57), the other part being this thing is an outright monster. Obviously, I love it.
