[RedBarchetta]

BRIDGES:
The "bridges" are 2x10 with a 2x4 spine right down the middle (you may not be able to see them in the photos), with three trestles or center supports. You will need to do some math on this one, as the wheel centers (center of front hubs to center of rear hubs) will determine the exact measurements. For the SPF, I measured this at "xx” (can't remember now!) and then subtracted 23” from this number to get the exact length needed. In this case that came to 63”. You will need the following:
2pc - 2" x 4" x ???" (you'll need to measure for your car)
4pc – 2” x 10” x ???” (you'll need to measure for your car)
6 pc – 2” x 4” x 7”
3 pc – 2” x 4” x 3.5” (approx)

Attach the 2x4 to the bottom of the 2x10 centered left to right.
Build the bridge supports as shown in the picture; two of the long 2x4s with the short one sandwiched between.

RAMPS:
The actual ramps are 2x12 boards cut to 38". I did not perform any angle cuts on the front ends of these boards, as this can cause splits later. Your car will drive up onto these without any problems.

The ramp supports were cut from scrap pieces of 2x10, 2x6 and 2x4. I don't have the exact measurements handy, but each unit is roughly 14” in total length. I did make a 10 degree angle cut to the tops of each 2x10 section so that it meshes with the ramp angle.

CROSS SUPPORTS:
The cross supports are simple 2x4, cut to the proper tire-center-to-tire-center for your particular car (I believe these were cut to 62", as my front tires were 53.5" center-to-center, while the rears were 57.5"). The 62” measurement allowed for the ends of the 2x4 to mount flush with the outside edges of each ramp section. Your measurements may vary, so triple check everything. I attach them with 2 drywall screws on each end, but I'm probably going to change this to something a little easier (perhaps threaded inserts with a bolt so that my air wrench can remove these faster). I attached the cross supports to the bridge side of each pedestal.

PRE-ASSEMBLY AND PIN PLACEMENT:
With all of the pieces assembled, you can now start pre-assembly. Lay out all the components into their proper sequence. Start with one front and rear pedestal and place a bridge between them. Line them up perfectly. Then add a ramp section to the opposite end of the rear pedestal, resting the top against the angled 2x4 supports. Lining up the ramps to the rear pedestal takes a little guesswork, as you want the 4” narrower track of the front tires to “feel” enough of the ramp without restricting the same for the rear tires. As I recall, the ramp placement is approximately 1” inboard from the inside edges of the rear pedestals. Consult the photos for reference.

Then using a ½” drill bit, drill two holes for the “pins” through the ends of each bridge and down into the 2x4 bridge supports on each pedestal. Drill these holes perpendicular (i.e. vertical) to the floor of the garage. After drilling, find a paint pen and mark each end of the bridge (“FL” for front left, “FR” for front right, etc.). Also mark the ramps “L” or “R”. You will need these references later!

Now drill similar holes on the top ends of the ramps, drilling perpendicular to the ramp board and continue that angle right into the 2x4 ramp supports.

Using a 1” hole saw bit, countersink each of the holes on the bridge boards and ramp boards approx. ¼” deep. This will create a nice recess for the .375” x 4” bolts (“pins”) and washers to rest within and allow enough room for easy removal.


FINISHING:
At this point, I took apart the entire assembly and finish-coated the holes and any exposed surfaces with black paint. I also laid down another coat of flat black on all the top surfaces to create a clean and uniform look for the final polyurethane top coat.

Apply the polyurethane top coat with a brush. Only one coat is really necessary, but you can layer on another to ensure good coverage (I did). Make sure you coat the bottoms (garage floor side) of each piece as well. On the ramps, make a final coat using the anti-slip agent added. This will give the ramps a sandy appearance, but will help the tires grip a little better. You don’t need anti-slip on the pedestals or bridges.

Since you are only coating the external sides of the pedestals, you won’t need as much polyurethane as you did paint. I found that a ½ gallon of polyurethane (bought in quart sizes) was plenty to complete the job. Give the polyurethane a good 24 hours to fully cure and harden.

Then add the 1/16” thick aluminum diamond plate to the tops of each pedestal, using the self-tapping screws to mount. I went to a local metals supplier and purchased pieces of scrap for each section. I also had them cut each piece to spec, as they have the right tools for the job and can make clean cuts. Total cost of the diamond plate, with labor for the cuts, came to about $35. Half of that cost was for the cuts alone, so you can save some money if you have the right tools available. The diamond plate serves two purposes. The primary benefit is that you can park a warm tire on it and not worry about lifting the polyurethane. The secondary benefit is that they just look cool!

FINAL ASSEMBLY:
Put the assembly all together in the exact spot that you want the ramps to be positioned in. Pay careful attention to the ramp distance from your garage door, ensuring that you can close the door properly without removing the ramps (if space permits). Also check side-to-side clearances from tool chests, work benches, etc.

Once you have the exact location dialed-in and you have re-aligned all of the components, the final step is to anchor the assembly to the garage floor. To do this, you will need to drill a hole in front of each front pedestal. First grab some of the 2x4 scraps you have left and cut a few pieces into 5” lengths. Then take a 1/2” wood drill bit and drill a hole through the center of each board. Switch to the 1/8” masonry drill bit. Center one of the blocks against the front leading edge of a front pedestal and work the drill bit through the hole to make a mark on the garage floor. Remove the anchoring block and drill a hole at least 4” deep. Then switch to the 1/2" masonry drill bit and repeat the process, enlarging the hole. Take one of the 1/2" by 4” anchoring bolts and work it through one of the wood blocks. Align the block with the hole in the floor and tap the bolt into it with a heavy hammer. Tighten the nut on top of the anchoring bolt. Repeat the process for the other side. You now have two permanent “ramp stops” on either side that will prevent the entire assembly from “walking” forward on you when you drive up onto it.