View Single Post
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 06-07-2006, 01:01 PM
Monster's Avatar
Monster Monster is offline
CC Member
Visit my Photo Gallery

 
Join Date: Jun 1999
Location: Livermore,CA, Ca
Cobra Make, Engine: Arntz/Bennett, FE with lots of shinny parts that make it go fast
Posts: 906
Not Ranked     
Default Help with my broken 406

Last month a valve broke in my relatively stock 406 and in the process it cracked the cylinder. Local machine shop with Ford & FE experiance is doing the machine work and is sleeving the broken cyl. The rest of my bores are worn up to .006 so I need to have the block bored as well to at least 4.155 (.020 over). So I decided this woud be a good time to pump-up my engine with more performance.

Now for the problems:

406 is unique and I've checked all piston manufactures and 406 pistons are a custom piece at ($600-$1000) for a set with pins. I've been told that if I can go to .030 I can use an off the shelf piston but I will need to hone my rods. (opinions?)

I just purchased a set of Eagle rods (H-beem) which I was told are "better" than stock, I've now been told that the stock rods are as good as the after market (opinions?)

I've been asking machining questions along the way on what I need to do to get my engine back together and it's has been getting more and more confusing depending on who I'm talking to (all respected builders which is making it more confusing).

I've read and been told that when boring 427FE's you need to use a deck plate. Does this include 406 which is a thicker casting (Yes/No) (If yes is the headgasket used when installing the deckplates?)

When an engine is sleeved does it need to be align bored?

What I want is to get my block machined with what's "needed" and not over-kill with work thats nice to do but probably not necessary.


thanks,
Mike
Reply With Quote