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Excaliber- I agree with you. Using the calculations or even the desk dyno, we have found on the chassis dyno that there can be many.... variables. The only correct & useful way is the chassis dyno to get real world numbers, especially the new "Mustang dyno". Yes, slicks make a huge difference ! On street tires I believe the time was around 10.90. For guy's using street tires, try spraying a degreaser on the tires, let it stay on for a while then, dump hot water on them. It softens them up. We do this on the sprint car tires & they feel brand new. But remember, do this on soft dirt tires. Don't know if it will help with hard compound street tires. I had Chuck dial in the motor on his dyno then we ran it on the chassis dyno.
Burnd- "We had a Ford club day". Most everyone was impressed with the times. Really, the only guy that was not impressed had a Pro-Street Galaxy with a 8-71 saying it had well over 1,000 hp. He looked at my cobra & smiled shaking his head. Well, after my last run, I couldn't find him....hum ? LOL ! Maybe it's because I kicked his @ss ? He ran a 10.65 (I think) Good time for a heavy sled. I agree with you on the small block but, I had to have a so called "Cobra Motor" We all had better watch the rice burners. 4-cylinder, basically stock, big turbo, coolers & methanol injection bring BIG hp. ! STOCK ! Ah, but there's nothing better than hearing a American V-8, big or small. The 60ft, if I remember correctly was 1.8. Had to slip the clutch for traction. On the second run, he dumped the clutch, front end came off the ground apx. 15" and shifting into second while in the air. Man........that was so,ooooo cool ! But, when he came down, the left ball joint broke, bending the wheel & sending him into the next lane, just missing the cone. Yes, I was a TAD....nervous. Trying to explain the different chassis set up's, gearing, tire psi, shock settings, shifting points ect.....would take too much typing. (I'm one of those two finger guy's) hehe!
But, here's the basics. Car weighs 2,390 lbs. with 18 gallons of racing fuel and my fat @ss in it. Home made short open header pipes, four inch tubbing down to three inch with turn out's. (good for torque) Adjustible coil overs, 350 front, 220 rear. I made new four bars out of alum. 550 lb. of torque twist. Just like our sprint car. The rear really squats at launch. With 8 psi in the slicks, I'm glad I used bead locks ! Wheel base is 94". In about two weeks, I found a guy that races' I.M.C.A Modifieds with electronic scales. He's coming over to my shop so I can set (or try) up his car, he's way to tight. Then I'll scale mine. I did move the motor back 3.5" The center line from the axle to the center of the carb. 21". From the axle to the front of the water pump is apx. 4". If you look in my gallery, you'll see that I have a lot of room in front of the engine. The weight transfer is great especially being a big blk. I use a modified TKO tranny, (I live outside the city by a highway so the overdrive is needed) 9" Ford with a Currie locker pumkin. Most of the time I use 331 gears. Much higher, 1st gear is useless. Thanks for the kind words. Sounds like you've got plans, what are they ? By the way, I can't run a sanctioned NHRA/IHRA race, no full cage roll bar. I should anyway but.........