[John S Peterson]

You say you pulled the battery and had it checked......Are you sure whoever checked it did it right? There is no one specification for all batteries Sometimes when parts store people (no put downs intended) charge and load test batteries they fail to follow the proper methods. First, when a battery is charged a very strong surface charge is present across top of the battery which needs to be removed. This is done by applying a 300amp load for 10 15 seconds at which time you should see at least 12.2v or above. If the battery is not charged properly it cannot be tested properly. It's job is to provide the energy necessary to start the car and power the accessories until the engine/alternator takes over. The only time it comes back into play is when your system writes a check your alternator cant cash, then it borrows it from the battery. Ck to make sure you battery is of the right capacity An alternator will only give back to the battery what it thinks it needs to, so if the batt is lying (defective cell) it wont charge properly either.....make sure it was charged and load tested properly (by the book).....ck all connections and cables (voltage drops are your worst enemy) NO crimp connections or those cheap battery connections....solder and shrink wrap battery cables. Use at least #8 wire from alternator to battery source. What your trying to do is make sure is that you are providing a FEAST so to speak of voltage to your most hungry accessories keeping them very satisfied. Follow the basics of what you have read from these guys, remember the words "fiberglass car" and redundant grounds. Also....a good Battery is at 100% potential at 80 degrees f. above and below that it's performance drops dramatically sooooo.

John