[vettestr]

Paul,
Sure I will try to help.
Clean and timing tab and damper. Mark each with a dot of fingernail polish stolen from wife (white or red works best). Remove and block vac line if you have feature on your distrib. Have pen and paper handy to record readings.
Start and idle engine, use wheel or knob on timing light to return timing marks to read zero or TDC. Now record the point or display on the timing light that it took to bring marks to TDC on engine. This recorded number is the initial or static timing.
Increase engine RPM to say 2500 RPM and repeat above. Turn wheel on light until engine marks return to TDC. Record this number as Total Timing.
To record or chart your timing settings record the RPM and reading on timing light it took to zero engine display every 200 RPM from say 1600 RPM to 2600 RPM. This will chart your initial timimg and how much and when you reach total timing.
Most modified engines like initial timing to be (12 to 20 degrees) and to have full mechanical timing added or be in by about 2200 RPM. Modified engines love initial timing and will increase performance to a noticable point. My engine likes 18 degrees and total is 39 degrees with it all in by 2300 RPM.
If you increase initial it will also increase the total so please check total timing. Too much initial will cause pinging or predetonation. Too much total will hurt rings and engine so CHECK IT. Mechanical timing can be changed by replacing springs or fly weights and MSD also uses COLORED bushings to change settings. It is easy to do it just takes time and a little work.
All engines like initial timing, how much depends on your cam and many things but bet you can use a little more. This belief works for me and just my rule of thumb. Each engine is different so not a perfect number without trial and error on your engine will tell but the above is how you record what you have. Have fun jeff c