The questions of what to do for the winter, if nothing else make sure coolant has corrosion inhibitor and freeze protection. Starting and let her come up to temp now and then is also as good as any for my 2 cents.
BUT >>> If a wet area protect from rust in cylinders with an
oil film and protect compressed valve springs if a high lift, wild or roller cam. This is much more important if not a stock cam. If a stock cam then the high revs and wild lift specs mean low spring pressure is not a big deal.
Coolant = how old or contamination possible? Change to product with anti corrosion/rust inhibitor plus freeze protection. I add extra corrosion inhibitor... always.
Engine oil = Change
oil + filter + make sure oil cooler and lines get new oil. I strongly endorse LUCAS oil additive as it sticks to all like STP but a newer technology without huge viscosity increase.
Fuel = I think a wet system as compared to draining is better if a stabilizer is added to gas but with close to empty on Gage.
Engine = I do not mind adjusting valve lash at all so I support loosening all rockers or shaft to release compressed valve springs. If not turn engine over to change ones compressed after a month or so. I also remove spark plugs and squirt 2 pumps of (Marvel Mystery Oil -top end lube) into each cylinder. Bar engine over to coat the walls well then put plugs back in. Always apply/coat plug threads with Anti-seize on alum heads.
Tires and suspension = Put car on jack stands, no flat spotted tires.
Battery = Remove and clean cable ends and put a low or trickle charger without cables hooked up, keep an eye on water level if not a sealed or gel battery.
Car cover = even in garage