[RICK LAKE]

meandmyrs I have 2 Shelby blocks and feel that they are built in the bottom end stronger that the other blocks made. Also the head studs pull from the crank mains and not the sidewalls of the block. Pond looks original, the shelby looks a like different. I had a 40 lb flywheel in my car for 3 years and then went to a 20lb flywheel. The car ran and feels quicker. Unless you are in parades and running 3 mph, a 2,500 lb car doesn't need a 40 lb flywheel. How ever you need to balance the motor with both the dampener and flywheel when building a motor. If you are running a .700" cam you might want the 40lb to help keep the vibration of the engine down a little at idle. I would have a 3 quart preoiler accusump that I use before staring my motor. 80% of wear is on startup. It may also save your motor if you go racing and something happens to the oilpump or drive. I have mine on a switch to control. Only keep it on when roadracing. It saved my motor this year at R&G when a broken rocker shaft happened and the lifters popped out of there bores. Motor is ok need to do some head repair work. The proper clearances for an Aluminium motor is the most important thing to long life and durablity. Keith C builds some nice motors with a custom cam and hydro lifters. 1 NOTE if you have never own a hot race car, trest your cobra like a loaded gun, RESPECT IT. This car has kill people who think there is NOTHING they are not the master of. You don't need 600HP in this car to have alot of fun. I run 370 hp and 468 tork in a 9.2 compression motor,and turn 12.5 in the 1/4 mile and can run on cheap gas, 87 proof. A 484 or 511 are nice motors My next is a 496 shelby. Go to the FE forumn and there is plenty of info on that site. Good Luck with the car Rick Lake