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Originally Posted by CWizard
Dean - Most excellent thread. Thanks for starting it. Some comments on your mods:
1. From your pictures, it looks like your set up would constrain the shaft more from side to side, but it can move more top to bottom than with the original hoop. Am I seeing this correctly?
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Thanks for the kid words, Jerry. Yes, you are seeing it correctly and I'm going to modify the half hoops (cut them down on the flat portions) so that the verticle "slop" is mitigated considerably more than you see right now.
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2. With regard to the clearance problem, how about turning the bolts around so the heads are on the outside? In the pics, it looks like there's enough clearance for that to work. That way, you don't risk reducing the strength of the fastener by cutting down on thread engagement length (by cutting off the ends of the bolts).
Jerry
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I really didn't want to chance any lateral drivetrain movements that may nick an inward facing bolt. The two bolts that I did shorten 1/4" still have 100% of the threads engaging the nut. And I also used Lock-tite on just those.
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Dean, What the heck are you feeding with that giant hose. Now I am jealous. I'm going to run out and get a bigger fuel line, but I just put mine in. Maybe I can sell it. -Scott
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Scott, no giant hose there (though I do have -8AN from the mechanical fuel pump to the carb). The big red line is obviously the battery cable. The other three braided lines (looks like one big azz hose until you focus...too much flash when I took the picture) run from the trunk-mounted 5lb Halon fire suppression system. Two lines flow to the engine bay and the third to the footwells.
Yeah...those stroked small blocks require BIG fuel lines. I'm getting a nasty lean condition on the top end with a -10AN and my fuel tank is sucking inward...I think I'll jump up to a -12AN.
-Dean