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Originally Posted by cwmcobra
Sal,
Interesting post because, as you say, everyone I've ever talked to has recommended two of your no-no's: RTV replacing the end seals and RTV around the water jacket ports. You've obviously had a lot of experience and I've had a failure doing it their way, so I'm game to use your recommendation. Any other details you can provide on the procedure? Such as:
1. Do you use the cork end seals that come with the gaskets, or the rubber ones that Ford used in their OEM engines, with the rubber pegs that fit in the holes in the end sealing surface on the block?
2. Do you use RTV or other sealant on the end seals? If so, top and bottom?
3. Do you use spray gasket adhesive to firmly locate the gaskets during installation? If so, which surfaces do you stick the gaskets to?
4. If no adhesive, you've not had any problem with the gasket slipping during the torquing of the manifold? The Victor Reinz gaskets that I have are graphite coated and seem like they might have more of a tendency to slide than others. Of course, maybe that's a good design feature that is defeated if you glue them down.
I will appreciate these and any other details that you can provide. Thanks!
Chuck
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My answers...
1- If the motor design allows for the rubber "pegged" seals, then I prefer those. Some are rubber with lips and no pegs, those are next in preferance. Last would be cork, but I still use them.
2- For the end seals, if it's the cork style (with no self stick on one side) will use 3M yellow snot on one side to glue it to the block. Then dry on the other side to the intake. I use a dab of silicone on the corners as well.
3- I have never used spray adhesive.
4- Never had any movement issues.
Here's how I do a typical intake...
First, if using cork end seals, I will fit them to the motor. This is done by cutting the "nubs" on the ends at a taper, so they lay flat to the heads. Then remove the test fit end gasket and put a dab of silicone in the corner at the head. Then I stick the end gaskets to the block, with ether yellow 3M snot or the factory peel and stick backing. Then a second dab of silicone at the corner. Then the intake gaskets go on. I use a VERY THIN coat of Ultra Black silicone sealer around both sides of the water passages. No sealer on any intake ports. Carefully put them in place, making sure they rest properly against the end gaskets. Then drop the intake down and torque to spec.
The biggest concern is acutally putting the intake on. You MUST drop it straight down. It cannot move back and forth even the slightest bit, or you'll displace all the gaskets. If you are doing an intake install on a motor that has bolts that go straight up, make up some studs and put them in the heads to use as locating pins for dropping the intake straight on. Then pull them out and replace with bolts.