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Is trans "stock"???
Tom:
Have you had the trans tricked, beefed or modified for track by someone other than a local Aamco repair service? I used to race with a C6 and they take a beating BUT not in stock condition. You need a RACING Trans Shop to do that for you if you are going to continue to race the car. [BTW:C6's eat up a ton of HP (55HP-60HP loss, contingent upon drive train; (reference data; TCI, Inc.; July 1991 Hot Rod Magazine)]. I am assuming that your definition of "track" is road racing and not drag racing? Consequently your heat issues are related solely to redundent stop/go and down shifting?? Those are questions. Frankly; if the trans hasn't been beefed for "race", you are probably going to burn it up anyway under continued track conditions. I have been to that movie too. FWIW: temps should be in the 180 to 220 degrees range.
Going on the assumption that you are road racing; a 2200 stall is not tight enough and you are constantly "slipping", which is generating major heat with "stop/go" not including any down shifting. A custom converter at about 1600/1800 would lock up quicker with less slippage and address that issue for you. On the other hand: "IF" you are Drag Racing then your stall is too tight for launching. That being said; if you're running a trans brake, then you are talking serious heat. With a trans brake locked; trans temperature rise between 50 and 75 degrees PER SECOND depending upon stall. PER SECOND!!!When the fluid regularily exceeds 300 degrees you can plan on reaching for your wallet at some point. I use some expensive voo doo, hokus pokus fluid in my trans that was developed for race and high heat conditions. The stuff doesn't break down under heat and is so good that we just filter and reuse it when we change trans filters. On another note: (The trans cooler goes in front of the RAD regardless of the configuration). I don't know why someone would tell you otherwise. You did not mention the CFM on the radiator fan nor did you mention if your engine typically runs hot. Is your radiator shrouded all the way around? Those issues may be a part of the equation. I am leading up to sumpin but i'll get to it later if it appears to be appropriate.
I am not sure I understand this right? I don't understand how you cooked a shroud? I can see cooking a few motors, but melting a shroud??? I don't get it. Was that from engine heat? I custom built an aluminum shroud but I can't imagine an engineered plastic shroud not being seriously heat tolerant. I need a little more information to offer more meaningful suggestions.
Bernie
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"Shut up and take the pain".
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