Not Ranked
I've run mine both ways on the same clutch. I originally installed it with the weights and ran it for about a year with no problems. Then the McLeod hydraulic throw out bearing sprung a leak and I had to tear it down. McLeod updated the bearing to the new design that eliminated the banjo seals and during conversations with Red Roberts about my driveline, he told me to remove the weights. His theory is that with the weights putting more force on the pressure plate fingers at higher speed the engagement point of the fingers with the throwout bearing changes. Any change in that engagement changes the stroke required in the bearing and opens the risk to over extend the bearing beyond the sealing ability of the O-ring, which can cause it to fail. He also feels the weights have little to no affect on clutch grip at high RPMs. Although this sounded a bit like Red putting down a competitor's product, he's generally a very credible guy. Since I didn't want to have any more hydraulic TOB problems, I cut the weights off before I reinstalled it. I've run it like that for about 3 years now with no problem. Both with and without the weights, I've never felt problems with the grip of the clutch at any engine speed.
Now, I don't rev my 521 above 5500 RPM, so I can't claim any experience with clutch slip above that range. The weights might help in the 6000+ RPM range; I can't comment on that. Also, my interpretation of Red's recommendation is that removing the weights is probably only appropriate if you are running with a hydraulic TOB. If using a mechanical system, I don't see how the weights would cause any problem, according to his logic.
I'm no expert, but hope this helps.
Chuck
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